NORSK

mas vid

2011-12-28T06:53:00.001-08:00

Lilly Boulders Fall 2011 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

ego burst

2011-12-26T07:13:00.000-08:00

Well, it has been a very long time since I last posted something on this blog. Why? EEhh. No! Wait, what? Yeah....frustration with life! Nothing really dramatic but I have been working like a mule to build my business and trying to get back into shape in the gym. It seems I fell into a really bad rhythm while I was injured..........not climbing!!! You see I spent 1 and a half years not training for climbing, and now that I am able to train it seems that my passion, my love for climbing has gone away. WTF? I was so used to just not going that even now Im ok with missing a day or 2 at the gym or not going out for the weekend or getting phyched at all. I hit v8 and was like .....whatever? Not that v8 is cutting edge or anywhere near that but what it is to me is progress from the injury hole I was in. I am 40 now and I kinda feel like I need THE CLIMBING WHISPERER. There was a time when I couldn't imagine my life without a single day off from training , it didn't matter if it was the gym, the tunnel in chapel hill, the vertical egde(ewwww). Shit I spent a decade in the vertical edge on 1 angle, 1 wall, a fucking decade! So phyched! Its not the injury Im fighting anymore, its my ego? Im ok with not being as strong as I used to be!!!!!!!!!! Im ok not being as strong as I used to be!!!!!!!!!!! Wait say it again and mean it.................(silence). Ok....im not!

It seems my inability to shut my ego up has gotten in the way. I always knew that it would. I cant be ok with just enjoying the sport ? I cant just be happy with the fact that I am able to participate ? Its sad really.....I sat in my office and watched videos, bitched,called old climbing buddies drunk like you would an X girlfriend looking for some ass @3am trying to feel connected to the sport while I was down. Well it seems the turning 40 and injury double whammy of last year really got in my head.

Progression is what this shiz is all about.....progress =happiness and direction. I am seeing progress , I am not injured......but still I struggle. I need something new, I need to feel connected to my sport again..........and I need some new shoes. Kurt if you are reading this I just wanted to say that I am very upset that you didn't respond to my 2,000 email request for free shoes, I mean cm on I called your house, your moms house, emailed your dad and still nothing.

Now its over Kurt, im buying five tens...ha!

2011-07-18T20:54:00.000-07:00

The Swiss Account ~ Feature Length from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

Colorado Visit

2011-07-04T09:04:00.000-07:00

MtEvans

The Hike into Evans is so beautiful and soft in terms of Colorado Alpine approach. We(tina and I) arrived at the airport around 11am and by 2pm we were at the area. Met up with Big Kevin Brown(owner of Denver Bouldering Club)long time friend......... Alison(freelance lawyer) and Kevin Perrone(healed the neck) and Scott and quickly I felt all the stress of the east coast go to the corner of my busy mind. After having not been outside climbing for a year and a half(ouch) this was a treat. I had alot of goals 2 years prior in Colorado and knew that I wasnt in that kinda shape yet but still wanted to reconnect with these projects and areas.

Good friends

Kevin doing his best uni-bomber look

Mirror Mask v10

Mirror Mask is the stand start to Big Wormv14. This thing is so good .....big holds, big moves...heel hooks...yerp. BTW Nate did the sit....yeah....wow mad props to him. Big Kev and I were very excited about the stand(minus the ending...rock in way kinda). We both got close but no send......going back in july to finish her off.

Mirror Mask v10

Kevin got very close and had the first part dialed in and I thought for sure he was going to do it right then and there...this would be his first v10(I think)...way phyched for him as he has gotten very strong and looking fit. As I sit here typing Im sure he is working it proper. Cant wait to get back there in july and also hit up RMNP as it was snowed in on this trip ...arrrgggghh!!!

Colorado in 3 weeks

2011-05-30T16:53:00.001-07:00

Endovalley • Rocky Mountain National Park • Colorado • Flux for Life (V13) FA from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Comeback.....

2011-05-14T07:10:00.000-07:00

Well its been a long hard road to healing my neck and getting back into the gym but it looks like im finally there. I have been going to the TRC now for about 2 months and feeling better every trip. I have been able to climb 5.12 / v5/6 and still the injury is holding strong. The more controlled my movement the better and Im starting to learn alot of technique that will help keep things good. As far as the v10 goal for this fall, I know that I can get back into that kinda shape, but will the neck let me dyno or go real hard for a move or 2?

Focusing on just being content with climbing at all, and really feeling good about getting back out there and hanging with friends.......cause thats what its all about!!!!

Going to Colorado for my bday at the end of June and maybe hitting up some old projects?

Hoping to have some rad summer climbing updates, but...........

Nate does Sunday service...yerp!

2011-03-03T16:47:00.000-08:00

Nate and crew in HCR

2011-02-09T16:20:00.001-08:00

Cold in Arkansas from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

This problem looks rad..8a Font

2011-02-03T17:06:00.001-08:00

Adam Ondra

2011-01-16T15:47:00.000-08:00

ADAM ONDRA - WARMING UP from BERNARTWOOD on Vimeo.

Mas Swiss

2011-01-08T13:58:00.000-08:00

Guillaume Glairon Mondet in Ticino-Switzerland_December 2010 from Romain WOHLGROTH on Vimeo.

2010-12-12T06:52:00.001-08:00

Swiss Beats!

2010-11-24T13:51:00.001-08:00

Switzerland 2010 • Magic Wood • Jon Glassberg and Carlo Traversi from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

wolvo

2010-10-30T06:24:00.001-07:00

ENTER THE WOLVO from chad greedy on Vimeo.

Mt.Evans

2010-09-19T08:01:00.001-07:00

Honey Badger V11, Mt. Evans FA from Jamie Emerson on Vimeo.

Nalle

2010-09-05T12:13:00.001-07:00

Nalle Hukkataival Rough Gem (8B) FA from ZeroSkillz on Vimeo.

Chrystal Buddha V8

2010-08-31T19:19:00.000-07:00

Crystal Buddha(V8) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

BUMP!

2010-08-01T10:46:00.001-07:00

Moore's Wall: A Few Piedmont Classics from Louder Than 11 - Jordan Shipman on Vimeo.

COMPZ!

2010-08-01T07:15:00.001-07:00

UBC Pro Tour: OFFICIAL TRAILER from NE2C on Vimeo.

Some more of CO!

2010-08-01T07:13:00.001-07:00

Colorado Boulders from Nathan Drolet on Vimeo.

Rami did Octagon!!!!!!!!

2010-07-11T19:35:00.001-07:00

thats it...took 56 yrs.

Brian @RMNP CO

2010-06-27T05:47:00.000-07:00

A Good Day from Brion Voges on Vimeo.

Jimmy Webb does Jade v14

2010-06-10T05:02:00.001-07:00

Jade V14 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Nalle v14 fa

2010-06-02T15:25:00.000-07:00

Nalle Hukkataival Ninja Skills (8B+) FA from ZeroSkillz on Vimeo.

Masterpiece v13

2010-06-01T07:00:00.001-07:00

Masterpiece V13, Joe's Valley from Matt Wilder on Vimeo.

Joes!

2010-06-01T06:29:00.001-07:00

Beyond Life from Matt Wilder on Vimeo.

Boulder CO classics

2010-05-23T15:13:00.000-07:00

Andre Di Felice on Mongolian Cosmonaut, V10 from Zack Sticcs on Vimeo.

The Brian Voges in Joes!

2010-05-17T15:41:00.000-07:00

Brion Voges in Joe's Valley from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

CORE!

2010-04-30T16:20:00.001-07:00

CORE Official Trailer from Chuck Fryberger on Vimeo.

The Hourglass 8b+...made to look easy

2010-04-21T07:42:00.000-07:00

The hourglass 8B+ from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.

Neck Update

2010-04-20T14:09:00.000-07:00

Well....here it is ...in all its glory......THE NECK UPDATE.

I woke up this morning thinking..."god I wanna go bouldering"...which is how I start everyday.... just in case you didnt know that!!! Had the doctors appt at 11;15 am and new that I would hear something back from them about the Xrays ,etc. I keep telling the doctors that no matter what I have to go climbing again...like soon...get it doc? They like to look at me like Im crazy and say things like..."well MR.Biddle your gonna have to wait and see" or "lets be realistic MR.BIDDLE".....and Im like "dude ..didnt you see the Moores Wall video?" Im like the bomb dude>>>>>>

Anyway ........enough humor.......I have 2 compressed discs that are causing a bad curve in my neck and will start Physical therapy and no surgery as of right now................................SSSSSSSSSSSSSSIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK.

That means maybe I can start training again next month and possibly be ready for my annual trip to RMNP!!!!!! Thats Colorado bro!!!!!!!!!

10 V10s is back on the map sucka..........!!!!!!!

Colorado list

-----------------

The marble v10

Bierstadt v10

Cage free v11

right El jorge v9

tacticle error v10

Iknow.... i know.....setting my sights high......THATS HOW I ROLL!

2010-02-23T05:50:00.000-08:00

Dark Waters (V13) from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Red Feather Colorado

2010-02-09T17:45:00.001-08:00

Mastodon V12 from Jamie Emerson on Vimeo.

He just did Mandala

2010-01-30T11:18:00.001-08:00

Virgin Gorda......maybe need to go?

2010-01-29T16:03:00.000-08:00

Gorda Colada from EM on Vimeo.

b3bouldering......Freak Brothers looks amazing

2010-01-26T04:49:00.001-08:00

Switzerland II from Jamie Emerson on Vimeo.

Daniel V13

2010-01-24T07:34:00.001-08:00

The Players extras - Daniel Woods sends Free Range (v13) from BS Productions on Vimeo.

V15

2010-01-22T16:48:00.001-08:00

Dave Graham - The Island V15 from BS Productions on Vimeo.

Nates so funny!

2010-01-22T06:43:00.000-08:00

Some Southern Shizzz. from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Moores Wall.........MYFO!

2010-01-12T13:50:00.000-08:00

Moore's Wall: A Few Piedmont Classics from Louder Than 11 - Jordan Shipman on Vimeo.

Ecoterrorist V10

2009-12-28T19:14:00.000-08:00

Harrison '08

Asheboro...hoping to get there soon!

2009-11-29T16:29:00.001-08:00

Neck Update

2009-11-23T07:41:00.000-08:00

Well its been about 5 weeks since I have bouldered at all!!!! OMG......what am I doing with myself? This is so crazy....its so hard to just sit around and not train. I went to the gym yesterday and tried to climb around on jugs and couldnt really tell if its better or not. Its def not 100% for sure but I was just curious where I am in the healing game? Maybe 75%!!!!!!!! This gives me hope for getting back in the game before xmas....which if I go any longer It will be so much more work to come back. I have put on 6lbs...ehhh...not a big deal but I dont want that to become 10lbs...ouch! Today I am going to begin running....I feel like this will both fill my time now and give me an outlet for exercise.....I need to fuckin sweat or something!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Still havent gone to the doctor......mainly because im assuming its the same drill as before...narcotics and muscle relaxers....which dont sound helpful to me...well see!

Til Then....hope everyone else is sending!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ecoterrorist V10

2009-11-15T18:16:00.001-08:00

San Fran Ca....circa 08'

Harrison Dekker checkin the line

Brussle Sprouts and Bacon

2009-11-03T15:02:00.000-08:00

So One night last winter my boy Eric Owens from New York and I left for a long weekend in Boone. Allison had rented a cabin with a hot tub and fireplace near Houndears...Rami was down and we hit the road......Getting to Boone very late and hungry we decided to hit the store up for some groceries.....Dinner!!! Eric loves to cook and was phyched to prepare for us one of his favorites....BRUSSLE SPROUTS WITH BACON!!!!!!! Man....sounds good right...crispy Brussle sprouts with crispy bacon....all pan fried with a little canola oil....holla! So Rami is chopping up wood geting a fire going and Im watching videos of Nate sending portabella(v10...prob)...saw Daniel Woods flail on this rig 4 yrs before....and Eric...he is cooking up a storm...bacon aroma is flowing and brussles a cracklin? Rami.....get me a beer bitch! Hahahaha.....

Anyway....so we eat the hell outta the Brussle sprouts and Bacon and it was so good....I mean I was in the kitchen lickin up the fucking juice outta the pan....that good!!!!

Its kinda hard to really explain what happened next.....I mean you know when you tummy hurts and it gets alittle bloated? Well amplify that by 10 and were getting close.....I felt like I swallowed a ballon......OF GAS>>>>METHANE GAS>>>>YERP

Note.....DO not eat eat Brussle sprouts with Bacon!!!!!!!!....The Gas that occured that evening had me laughing like a teenage boy at times...and at others I needed a doctor....Really!!!!!! Note also that everyone was having the same experience and by luck the girls waited until the next day to show up at the cabin....wow close call.........

Here is Eric on Octagon left V9(solid)ha

CONTROL V6

2009-11-03T09:30:00.000-08:00

Sunday Service

2009-11-02T18:25:00.001-08:00

Benchmark.......

2009-10-31T07:33:00.000-07:00

Just some thoughts about Grades at Moores Wall.....some people were asking what was good and what was great! These problems I highlighted are good examples of classics at the grade.

SOLID

----------------------------

V5=The Nick ***

V6=Proper Mod sit ***

V7=Vandal stand ***

V8=Agent Orange sit ***

V9=Left Octagon start **

V10=Orange Crush sit ***

SOFT(this doesnt mean its easy)

----------------------------

V5=The Pit *

V6=Lost Boys sit **

V7=Cuisan *

V8=Tsunami ***

V9=Center Octagon *

V10=Stigmata ***

Also Kevin Perrone was wondering what was good in the V9 category..

Boone

------------------------

Ominous Roof V9 (little soft for grade)

Break Up V9

Instinct V9 (soft)

Bertha V9

Moores Wall

-----------------------

Black Sheep V9

Masterlock into Locksmith V9 (soft)

Vandal Sit V9

Stone Mt

................................

Rage V9

Next time...

2009-10-26T18:05:00.000-07:00

Went to G ma today. Solo. Kinda. Met up with my homie Pat Goodman. He showed me a boulder that I had never seen before. Cool face climbing on small crimps. Not my thing but still cool. Really tall. Maybe 25ft or so. The first 10ft, tiny holds. The next 15 the big ones. BTW funny how jugs can feel so small when your afraid. Pat showed a line to me that he said hadn't been done. DONDE! Silly sit to a jug then to a good side pull with your right, big move to a tiny left backhand. Fight a weird barn door. Stab a big slot with your right, match and top it out. FA! holla. I called it, "Success is like suicide" thank you Jay Z. V5/6 I guess. Last time out was kinda bad for me. Didn't have a good day. Too much CROSSFIT! Very sore. No core tension, lats weak, pecs hurtin'. Worked/Flailed on Machismo V8, which needs all of those muscles. Today was much different. Almost murdered it first go. WHUT. It was kinda wet at the top which sucked. next time. Headed up to the Mighty Mouse boulder. Pat showed me this other problem on it called Space Cat V8. Shits cool! Never even seen this thing before. After Pat hooked me the beta i went to work. Cool start, slappy moves, heel hook, and a huge go again to a hard match on a bad sloper. High foot and your out kinda thing. Holla at me if you wanna know beta. Its worth it. We both almost sent but once again...next time. We were getting tired so we thought a different style of climbing would be better for us so we headed down to Have Guns Keep Traveling V9. Crimpy traverse. Duh. I pretty much HIKED it to the rest jug. Then, FAIL. Tank was on empty. Sigh. I worked on the hard no feet campus part and it felt kinda easy considering it being the end of the day. Oh well...next time. If the weather holds out for the weekend I should have a pretty good day...next time.

The Season Is On

2009-10-26T05:14:00.000-07:00

Well so we are almost to the end of October and the temps have been pretty good so far. Seems like it's been raining quite a lot in Boonetown but I've managed to get up there three times already. I finished up Novocain (V6) but it seems like every time I get one problem off the project list, five more rush in to take its place. For me now Left Out (V8) is the new obsession. For those of you who don't know the crimps on that thing might be the tiniest ever. Anyway, here are some pics from last year. Hopefully the crew will all get back to Boone together soon, damn you rain!!!!

Rami - Portabello (V9)

the author on Novocain (V6)

Castle Rock ,CA

2009-10-24T19:06:00.000-07:00

Classic Hueco Wall V5

Welcome Alison

2009-10-24T18:59:00.000-07:00

2009-10-19T15:48:00.000-07:00

WERD! first post to the GROUP BLOG!!! Moore's wall yesterday. first time for this season and it was pretty good. kinda cold, a little damp but still good. didn't really have an agenda except for Steph wanting to do some work on Hidden In Plain Veiw. can you say high-ball! BAWSSE! shiz it like 30ft high. scary i think plus it has a semi-talus landing. no bueno tio. she worked out all the beta to about 10ft or so. needs another scout out and more pads and i think it will go. pre-spray FFA! I screwed around on Busta V8, one of Rodney's rigs from back in the day. i always thought it looked cool but DAMN it looked hard. really small hold for you left hand, maybe 1/4 pad crimp. oh, and down sloping. tried Rodney's beta for a few tries and was like nope. i'm gonna move on. then Steph was like "try a right heal hook." hummm... 4 0r five goes later Donde! really fun problem. my fingers hurt today. Jared sent right after i did for the "1-2" oh, Jared worked on Masterlock V9 a bit too and i shot a few photos. Addam also did Big Up V6. it was touch and go there for a sec. his skin was fading fast due to the sharpness of the route but he sent and made it his bitch. swole.

Louder Than 11

2009-10-19T13:55:00.000-07:00

So yesterday Nate Draughn, Rami Annab, and myself had the pleasure of giving Jordan Shipman(owner and operator of LT11) the tour of Moores Wall bouldering. The day started off for me at 4am...wow...I knew that I had to get up at 530am but woke up at 4am and just couldnt get back to sleep. I had alot on my mind...Work....little crazy right now as well as the filming we would be doing that day. I had injured my neck about 8yrs ago and it was pretty rough...herniated c7 disk...ouch...outta the game for 6 months and hating the down time. So in the gym setting for the latest comp at TRC I felt that same tweak on a dyno move.....now it had been 8yrs with no hint of the neck drama...but now it reared its ugly head or neck.......ouch. Was I going to be able to send for the camera? FOR HOLLYWOOD? HAHA>>>>

Was I going to be mid crux and my neck explode? So many stupid thoughts were racing around my foggy mind. Anyway its like I said 4am and im up like drinking coffee, feeding Lilly....she is looking at me with such disgust....why are we up eating at 4am...that look?! So I do lots of coffee and hit the road, getting to the food lion in King at about 725am to meet up with the boys.

Its maybe 40 degrees and the wind is blowing and I had to drink half a bottle of Pepto Bismol.....because ....well....ummmm....things were not looking good for being athletic!....stomach?....neck?...wtf??????

We had to shoot alot of entry scenes which was fun ...Zoe Wilson....Jordans girl... also has A ROVER...so it was double rover intro...nice! We headed down to the North End first ....as Nate was being filmed on Orange Crush sit V10. This rig is rough.....solid V10....very cool compression moves on steep arete. Nate had to warm up on this hahahahahaaaha.....no really! It went very well and Nate completed the filming there rather quickly(2hrs). Next it was over to VANDAL sit V9....this was the line that I would be featured doing......Neck? Stomach? Cmon...give me a break.

Rami and I bush wacked thru to the Valley and got to Vanadal about 10 minutes ahead of the film crew...brushed up the holds....and since it had been a while since the FA of Vandal I had to recall my beta. Holds cleaned and chalked, beta revived.....fuck you stomach and piss off neck....IM READY. Every thing was going to go my way right?

One scary slip off the later 3rd of the problem(no spotters allowed) scraped up my elbow alittle, but after that all went well and we wrapped up the filming of Vandal and my neck hung in there. Next we went down to Tsunami V8 and Rami killed it like 5 times in a row and thats that.....Moores short coming out next month ...maybe on Deadpoint Mag site as well as LT11.....phyched.

After we enjoyed a few beers and Mexican food at MI PUEBLO in king. Very tasty food ...I was impressed. Oh I almost forgot to mention after meeting Jordan and Zoes dog...I want a greyhound...they rock.

Other Highlights

Jared ande Eric did Busta V8...werd up

Thursday Boone Session

2009-10-09T10:45:00.000-07:00

Went to Boone yesterday and it was so good. The temps were perfect maybe 65 to 70 and the sky was a perfect shade of blue. Fall is so sick....I have such a hard time with deciding if which is better fall/spring? The trees in Boone are looking very nice also , nearing full color already reds,yellows,greens...beautiful! It did seem like there was a little rain the day before however things had dried up nicely.

We started off at Sassafras so that Alison could try both The feather v7 and The Fern v7/8(stand) also I wanted to give Vortex some goes as well, while Eric just wanted to run laps on everything haha. Alsion was very close on The Feather....all she needs to do now is go back and do it. She also broke the ice on The Fern stand and figured out some good beta!

The Fern

I got very close to doing Vortex...all I need to do is go back and complete this line...I fell or gave up rather at the top because its so dirty ...will bring wire brush and clean it up for the send next weekend...very phyched...its a little scary but fun.

Vortex

Next we bounced to Gma and I had really wanted to actually try Teamwork because it was wet everytime I had been to Gma in the last month...seriously always wet. Eric and Alison wanted to do Have guns so they headed down to the Great Roof area while I went over to Teamwork. Guess what? It was wet again..@1^#^&%@#&@$#@#%@*%#*@%#@&%#&@%#!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Luckily the starting holds and the sloper for the first move were dry...so I was able to do the first part and get my beta ready for when it is dry...its way better than it looks....I have to let my feet cut on the first move and hold it to get the right foot up to the crimp and then toe hook...very phyched to do this....hopefully I can do the mantle!

Then after trying Teamwork I went down to hook up with those guys and they were both close to sending...eric was doing keep traveling V9 and allison regular have guns V7. Have Guns

Next I gave Sunday Service V11 some goes....ouch this rig is rough...I got to the dyno first go but never made any more progress, not sure if i can do the dyno move its crazy,need some beta....Nate? Then......ummmm......I had been looking at Masochist for like 6 months before and well never felt like sacking up and getting on this V10 break a leg highball on the far left tall side of the great roof..........ok...im scared! It involves a big first move off a sharp but good left and and a side pull/undecling for your right...high step the right foot and pull on to go big to a jug.....so sick... Cant wait to go back ...so many projects now

Masochist

2009-10-07T16:53:00.000-07:00

So the comp was so much fun.....for me its all about hanging out,chillin with old friends and discovering new ones. I got up to boone around 2pm on thursday and was so ready to help out Jim Horton and the gang set up,tape up, and finally clear tape the problems . Yes that was my position this year...the clear tape guy. You see without the clear tape the labels would simply melt in the rain. I was so important....i mean the whole comp hinged on my ability to clear tape a problems label. Oh yeag I also chalked up the holds....you know I looked at the line ...saw the holds...and chalked them. SICK!!!!!!!!!

Also I was in charge of taking the VIP up the hill so they didnt have to endure the bus.....JRHEE,ABBY,Rami,Brian C,etc...you know...the big wigs...I had to entertain them with the beats in the rover and hob nobbing with the guard at the gate...yeah we know each other.

Highlights

Project plowshare link up v10

Mr.Thick v9

THE Fern V10?!!!......#######

2009-09-14T20:04:00.000-07:00

Oh yeah.....

The hike to Sassafras is well worth the prime stone to be had! Nice little river in the middle of the hike....... and .......steep smoggy misty uphill....and then 20 minutes .....and then you are there!! No really its good.....

ZMustdolist...

The Feather V7...this thing is so cool. Jug start , then big move to a right hand crimp and then pause match with the left hand or just jump for crimp and mantle!!!

The Fern V10... was very cool....it has a fern growing in the middle of the problem and we all(Eric, Steph and I) took it very seriously...Do Not Touch the fern...it is special!!!!!

Twice Upon a timeV10... is next......

Flagyl after ...Im also phyched for Teamwork

This 10, Tens thing is rad!!!!!!

BOONE AND TEN 10's

2009-08-30T14:48:00.000-07:00

OK......so the season is getting closer and closer. So phyched for the end of hot weather and the beginning of saturday and or sunday being an outdoor climbing session. Yes, as the title says its all about Boone this season and my pursuit of sending ten V10's this season. This is a tall order for myself however I feel like it will motivate me to get er done ....strange how just saying something can jump start the actual event!!!!!!! I have been going to Moores Wall for so long now over and over and over and over....you see its not that I dont like Moores wall its just that it limits my ability to get stronger, to move forward , to get PHYCHED! Its so close to home nearly half the distance from here to Boone....this is why I went so often, less time in the car and more time to climb. Lets face it Gmom,Blowing rock,221,Houndears its all way better than Moores ...ouch...I know it hurts to say but its the truth and I dont care anymore about the simple logistics that Moores has to offer Im going to get XM radio , beef up the ipod and have a good lookin travel partner(rami and or eric..haha) and hit the freakin road son.

The List

-------------------------------------

1. Twice upon a time

2. Teamwork

3.Flagyl

4.Room with an Arete

5. Project Plow Share link up

6.The Fern(done....off the list)

7. Bedaphile sit

8.Black 45

9.Bertha

10. Vortex

Well there it is....I said it Ten 10's

Lets hope the Rover will put up with he constant traveling because Imn grounded from the Honda because I dont keep it clean enough for the boss..haha

A plus to going in the Rover is that I get to take Lilly...well when I feel like dealing with her ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

EHHHHH......

2009-08-09T07:15:00.000-07:00

Ok..so it has been really hot lately and I feel like I have been living in the gym. Not that the gym is so bad, in fact I think the TRC is the Bomb Dizzle and I love the scene there.....the people ....my new addiction....VERVE>>>> its all good but its still the gym!! Its crazy how phyched you can get right before the send of your project outside.......for me It goes like this

1. I have all the beta memorized and so embedded in my thick scull that I could spray you down from across the country.

2. I have the shoes freshly waxed and the chalk bag is loaded with fairy dust.

3.I have ingested enough coffee to rot a whole in my stomach

4.I have talked it over with my mom and she says its ok to murder

5.Then i can feel it coming.....I start to tremble, butterflies are goin.....................BOOM!!!!

This is what I live for...that moment!!!!!

NOW WHAT?

It takes me about ten minutes to be over that feeling and wanting it again. I feel like some serial dating ho who has to hit and run their whole lives ....but thats ok...thats who I am in the climbing world a hit'n and run'n ho with no regrets along the way.

These are the types of blog updates you get when summers here....sorry

COLORADO DAYDREAMIN

2009-07-25T07:18:00.000-07:00

OK....so its a little late and the same as rami's blog update however here it is..........

After we landed and waited an extra hour for my pad to arrive we swept up the rental car and headed to clear creek canyon to Animal V10......this thing is rad!!!!! The water is raging class 6 rapids, so loud you could barely hear me murder this rig in less than 2hrs.....shortly after I only thought it was fair to my pad to let it surf these beautiful water lines......I mean really after all your pad does for you....shouldnt we treat them a little better? My pad murdered the white water and had to eddy before he got sea sick.

Sick run bra!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Happy bday to me and we peaced out for boulder.........

AHHHHHHHH

Yeah like everybody either climbs, bikes,australian rappells or walks their dog here.

Anyway we went to Nates...aka the hilton on the hill and let me tell you the accomidations were lovely!!!!!! I stayed in the upper level suite with my pad....he was still all wet from his send of the upper class 6 rapid send and this made for an interesting nites sleep. I drank like 3 big beers from the liquor mart and went to nite nite after crushing at fooseball at Max's crib.

We woke up the next day and chilled at the coffee shop for a minute or 2 and headed to Rmnp with Dave and Carolyn Nate and Brian ....The Brian voges!!!!!!!!!!! The hike was bad but not crazy bad....

The view

We went to the Gobot v11 area and warmed up on the classic autobot v5........this thing was super good and a little scary....basically if you fell you would tumble down a sloped boulder to a scabed up ass casm. After this we went over to the Marble V12 which has a V10 start that I did all the moves on but didnt link....I want to go back for this one $ sure. Checked out Handicapps,deep puddle dynamics and Tommys arete ...all good stuff.

Da crew

We headed to Denver to hook up with Kevin Brown and crash at his crib. While we were there we checked out his new gym he opened up with Lee Payne in denver

.....The DBC...................................Thats The Denver Bouldering Club!!!

It was rad and I set a v6 boulder problem to leave my mark.

Next we wanted to go check out Mt.Evans area B

Mt Evans

We warmed up on the ladder v2.....and I did makers mark v5 second go. We headed over to Bierstadt v10. This thing is rad, I got to the last move first go and never sent....booooooooo!

Bierstadt......with the beaver face!

Next we headed up the hill to Dali V9...also very rad line I sent quickly and considered it soft for 9 but very cool

Dali

All in all a good trip ...going back soon to send the Marble, Bierstadt,Deep puddle,and Cage free.

I miss the area already... its very safe to say that im going back in august for a long weekend to send and also check out the Denver area for housing as we are looking to make a move with our company and ourselves.

Respect the Yukon!!!!

Colorado

2009-05-31T07:26:00.000-07:00

Well Nate left today for Colorado, Jon is in route and I still have 30 days to go!!!!! Need to work,work,work until then and cant wait to be able to spend 12 days bouldering with no limitations . I have alot to do and have a short list of problems i want to tick

1. Cage Free V11

2. The nothing v8

3. The Amendment V10

4. Dali v9

5. Gorillas in the mist V10

6. Silverback v10

7. Bierstadt v9/10

Im also excited to discover new lines (to me) and have projects for the following summer as this trip is officially tradition!!!!

Kurt..............Holla!

2009-05-19T18:14:00.000-07:00

Went to Thorns sit today with Nate and eric and didnt send but here are some pics of the main event....its SHARP!!!! Still I want to do it and cant wait for the next sess on this line

Fall Temps in KING manana

2009-05-18T16:14:00.000-07:00

Yeah.......ohhhhh yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Well its been a minute or two since I updated the blog.....what can I say...I have been working....been bored ..been chillin....been gymin...been thinkin!!!!!!! Thinkin about what you say? THORNS SIT! I have been dreaming of the chance to have killer temps creep back in so I (or nate) can murder this rig!

Update Tommorow!

Searching...Searching...for the Newness

2009-04-26T07:43:00.000-07:00

Yesterday my boy Eric Nyc and I went to Moores to check out the rock thats below the road on the right as your driving into the park proper(strong valley). This stuff looked so promising and I had heard people were there back in the day puttin up the goods. We got a pretty early start for sunday and we were at Moores by 1045 am. We had to park on the side of the road and decided to throw the shirt in the window to look like we were outta gas and would return shortly...haha smoke and mirrors for the rangers. As I was parking the honda i got to close to the guard rail and crunched a big divot in the car door.....shit,piss,ass....crap!!!!!!!!!!!! This was very dissapointing to say the least. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!

OK...lets start the hike....this shit was steep downhill and very loose ground. John pro and I had made the half hike in before but turned around. As we pushed on we ran into alot of very big boulders/cliffs that had good rock quality but not really set up for bouldering, these were about halfway down. We could hear the creek running strong and were ready to see whats what down the valley.......then we hit the mangrove/rhodo forrest....holy thick ass shit. This was like some eco- challenge race in peru!!!!! I was crawling at points on the knees getting jabbed in the eye by thorns, chased by wild turkeys and giant toads. REALLY!!!!!! All for the glory of finding the new hueco/joes valley... sick badass area...oh yeah its just sitting there ready to be owned!!!!!!

So we finally reach the creek at the bottom of the valley and its like sunny 85 degrees...itchy and bleeding I run straight into a kick ass boulder(alot like asheboros steepest)...right in the middle of the creek....running water and small falls surrounding it. This thing is so cool........its about 6 feet wide and 12 feet long. You end up using both sides and slap your way out.....the start holds are good....left hand sloping edge right hand small crimp..........slap out with left hand twice with your heel hooked nicely,then scum your right foot by the right hand crimp and smack for a right hand sloping hold thats ok...hold that....heel your right foot on that crimp and smack twice to the lip and press it out.................... werd BULLFROG v6 is born!!!!!!!!

Everything else down there was ok...little chossy or too big.........but the creek bed is promising...we didnt search but maybe a third of the creek bed area but the rock was sooo good...softened by the water flow and sick roof features, however the thickness of the rhodos was alot to deal with........maybe something there worth it!!!!!

THORNS SIT PROJECT

2009-04-19T07:53:00.000-07:00

Well the season is starting to slow down, but I am not ready....i want more outta this year. Yesterday we went to moores wall...again...and I have to admit that it was fun just tooling around......doing the casual circuit....no pressure .....no expectations!!!!! First we went to the masterlock wall and warmed up...took a brief look at the right exit to the pit, this is hard no matter how you slice it. We wanted to check out this potential new line on the tall side of the sherman pocket roof boulder. This line looked very chossy and dirty up top so we moved on to Gravity Cavity area. I bet its been 4 years since I had been up to these problems.

Waterboy V7

Top Shelf V6

Gravity Cavity V5

Hustler V5

Anna Pornakova V5

Eric Owens and I did waterboy and Eric Danielson and Eric Owens did the 2nd and third ascents...i think...to Top Shelf. I did Gravity Cavity and Anna Porn also.

All week I had been thinking of my new obsession....THORNS SIT V10/11. This thing is goona be rad!!!!!! I am not sure if it will go in the hot weather .....however Nate is coming back soon to work for my company and I have a feeling we will work it out. Last summer it was Black Sheep V9...this season ender might prove to be alot harder than that. It starts off with a lockoff move from 2 small crimps up to a very muted 2 finger sloping edge ...this edge is the one hold that may be weather dependent....not sure....from there you have to cut your feet and heel your right on a good ledge and pause on a very small edge with your right then fire to the original right hand start crimp(sharp) bring your left hand up to the left edge, get your feet up and do the dyno to a half pad edge 5 feet over the lip...hold the swing and get your foot up to do the crux reach to a bad sloper and your out....ahhhhhhh cant wait!!!!!

yo...yo...yeah...update

2009-04-16T17:16:00.001-07:00

Stigmata V10.....wow I finally did this rig!!!!!!!! I had to use retarded beta to do it but it worked to my suprise.

The Shoe of Shame

2009-03-29T07:35:00.000-07:00

When your a naughty girl and you get into the cat food for the 100th time this month........you must pay the price and wear the nastiest fowl smelling.. foot fungus odor ridden.... vandal fa..... fart marinated.......SHOE OF SHAME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hot Rami and Friends

2009-03-24T14:31:00.000-07:00

So this weekend was soooooo very good. The weather was perfect and the friction was impeccable to say the least. It all started with a heavy work day friday that killed my back but not my motivation. I called it quits at around 3:30 and snatched up Eric from Duke and we were off to Boone. Wow we got there very quickly....maybe 2.5 hrs!!!!!! Due to the daylight savings plan we were able to go bouldering as soon as we arrived. So of course we head straight to the M1 boulder at 221 area and warm up on the v4 and quickly jump onto the V9 INSTINCT.......this thing is so good! Having already done the stand start I was phyched to see the sit.... INSTINCTUAL V10! Holy fucking dyno!!!! John you are a mad man, this span is so far....i could barely reach the hold....so this went no where fast but Im ready to try it some more later. Eric and I then started trying the stand and figured out that this was to tall for one pad and fading light...scary.

Off we went to 221 The Dump and we were very phyched to try Project Plowshare V10.

We started throwing ourselves around like rag dolls and made some pretty good progress(in the dark). Eric and I both stuck the first moves within 30 minutes but the dark shut us down...booooooooo!!!! So we headed to the crib and met up with the group...Allison,Moya,Rami,Beth,Ron,Kevin,myself and eric. Then we partied like Rock stars and ate like kings and queens....and smoked like hobbits...haha!!!!!!

Next morning was rough....wooo...to many beers dude. It seemed to go on forever....the coffee wasnt helping and I thought I may ralph, but it passed and we were off to M1 again to show everyone the V4 to warm up . Everybody was phyched about it and we stayed for an hour doing it over and over, it was actually pretty chilly also so it was good to get the blood flowing properly. So we packed up and headed back to the dump. Allison was geared up for Black magic woman V7 and I had one thing on my mind since the night before. Upon getting there we met up with John,Nate,Dave,and Vogues...they were doing Breakup V9/10...after a few was ups we headed down the hill to our probs. I was so ready to get it on and so was everyone else.

I got through the crux to the last move on my first go...wow this was suprising. Rami said he was going to flash but...haha. Anyway after a couple more goes I broke a key foot by accidently kicking the wall to stay on...ouch this hurts!!!! After some cursing and pissing and moaning I sent Project Plowshare next go.........werd em up! NOW WHAT? Ha

Other highlights..............

Rami sent Raw Meat sit v9

Kevin sent six pack for sure v6 and french roof v6

Allison also sent french roof v6

I repeated Raw meat and Raw Teeth

RTP UPDATE

2009-03-15T05:26:00.000-07:00

Like rain and humidity and sharp holds? Then your in luck ...welcome to my hell

Spring Is Here!!!!!!

2009-03-09T14:39:00.000-07:00

ALISON VANDAL V7

Yo...after 2 weeks of being sick and body malfunctions and the weather problems....I actually went climbing yesterday. Lets start with the night before......wine,beer,wine,beer,wine....something about a time change and boom its 7am. Ouch, my head hurts!!!! So i hit the java and hit the road to hook up with my new friend Moya(she cool) and we head for moores to meet allison,kevin,eric,steph,and beth. On the way i get introduced to the" chai bomb"...props moya!

We get to moores and head for the Masterlock wall to warm up...within 30 minutes we were throwing ourselves at "Busta" V7/8.....this was very greazzzzy, I barely did it and so did the 5.10rep dude from Chapel hill. Moya did Lost Boys V4 and I also did Big Up v5. Gina and Tracey were also there and warmed up with us as well ...then we busted to Tsunami V7. This is Allisons proj and the rest of the group hadnt been there so......this thing was also very greazzzzy...It took me like 3 goes to do the stand and while Kevin P. and eric worked the sit. The good news is that allison worked out all the moves and I think will do it soon(sick).

After that we headed to The Vandal V7/V9. I have only repeated this thing once since I established the sit 2 to 3 years ago....so I was phyched to try it and got through the roof but didnt finish....IM TIRED. Finished the day off at Diagonal boulder and Moya,tracey and gina all sent the diagonal crack...props!!!

ASHEBORO&MIKE DEAN

2009-02-27T14:35:00.000-08:00

It was about 5 years ago......maybe 6....... when after a long hard day of trail building, we all just wanted to go bouldering. This is trail day asheboro and Im with Mike D...John Pro....Ed williams...you know the old posse,about to send IHOP (v4) for the warm up when all of a sudden a very old woman(hoover)starts to yell........."this place was quiet until the god damn internet made it popular". This lady was most likely 80 years old and looked alot like the witch on The Wizard of OZ. She was so fired up...i mean if she had a shotgun at the time I have no doubt that she would have at least fired off a"warnen shot". We all proceeded to be fair and polite and all that jazz......this didnt work at all and the rest is history. The next weekend, it was off.....road blocked ...warning signs posted ....rednecks in tree stands on standby....errrrrggghhh.

Mike On the "Thimble" v5

Fusp v5

Beef v7/8

Cannonball v5

Asheboros steepest v4

Z crackv6

All these lines sat and waited 4 yrs as Mike Dean went to battle with The Hoovers and other land owners . Rumors about the situation went on and on...back and forth...right of way...property lines....DEER HUNTING SEASON.....omg....haha LOL.

Anyway props to MIKE DEAN, Jim Horton, The CCC, and the access fund for pulling it off.

6 miles 2 problems

2009-02-21T19:01:00.000-08:00

Today was epic!!! We made the hike to the north end first thing....wow let me tell you that warming up on v10 is not easy. Greg,Rami,Eric and I umm pumped full of coffee and beef jerky gave orange crush sit a bunch of goes and made little progress. This line is so good and I feel close but it hurts the body....sooo much compression move to move.

Next we bush wacked to the valley...this isnt as bad as I remember, unless you have a huge ORGANIC bouldering mat....uggggghh. We met up with eric and steph for a quick catching up chat and were off to the Octagon boulder.

It took a couple of goes to warm back up again but i managed to do the left variation of octagon with the match start. This seems silly but it does add a half move....duh. Seriously i like this thing it adds one compression move that feels like moving in slow motion into the original beginning...phyched! Rami, and greg got really close to sending the center start to Octagon and eric is close on the left variation as well. We were suppose to check out asheboro but I was the only CCC member so that wasnt going to work....sorry sean I forgot my phone also. Remember 6 miles 2 problems....ugghh im ready for another boone trip.

Here it is

2009-02-20T10:13:00.000-08:00

Last weekend went to moores(again) and Rami finally did Tsunami sit (v9) 2nd ascent. Holy shit if he hadnt done it(first go of the day btw) I was going to cut off his travel benefits.....good work Rami...now what?My friend eric who is in town for a while put up this new line called Ansatzpunkt v6+(meaning starting point). This is a great addition to the main area, its a little hidden but very fun. It involves a very small crimp for your right hand that you gaston to hit the jug seen in the pic i have with my left hand with a semi scary top out........dont fall you will hit the tree fyi.

After that we headed to the north end with our special cloaking device so to not disturb the raptor nesting...umm and finally broke the ice on the projects below Orange CrushV10. Pre-named Twister this thing is so weird, hosting one of the coolest holds i have ever seen it proceeded to kick our ass. More to come on twister as well I am ready to give Orange Crush some fresh goes next trip.

Also my Hueco trip has been put off...arrrrrgggg and my shoulder has begun to hurt....wtf?