Louder Than 11

So yesterday Nate Draughn, Rami Annab, and myself had the pleasure of giving Jordan Shipman(owner and operator of LT11) the tour of Moores Wall bouldering. The day started off for me at 4am...wow...I knew that I had to get up at 530am but woke up at 4am and just couldnt get back to sleep. I had alot on my mind...Work....little crazy right now as well as the filming we would be doing that day. I had injured my neck about 8yrs ago and it was pretty rough...herniated c7 disk...ouch...outta the game for 6 months and hating the down time. So in the gym setting for the latest comp at TRC I felt that same tweak on a dyno move.....now it had been 8yrs with no hint of the neck drama...but now it reared its ugly head or neck.......ouch. Was I going to be able to send for the camera? FOR HOLLYWOOD? HAHA>>>>

Was I going to be mid crux and my neck explode? So many stupid thoughts were racing around my foggy mind. Anyway its like I said 4am and im up like drinking coffee, feeding Lilly....she is looking at me with such disgust....why are we up eating at 4am...that look?! So I do lots of coffee and hit the road, getting to the food lion in King at about 725am to meet up with the boys.

Its maybe 40 degrees and the wind is blowing and I had to drink half a bottle of Pepto Bismol.....because ....well....ummmm....things were not looking good for being athletic!....stomach?....neck?...wtf??????

We had to shoot alot of entry scenes which was fun ...Zoe Wilson....Jordans girl... also has A ROVER...so it was double rover intro...nice! We headed down to the North End first ....as Nate was being filmed on Orange Crush sit V10. This rig is rough.....solid V10....very cool compression moves on steep arete. Nate had to warm up on this hahahahahaaaha.....no really! It went very well and Nate completed the filming there rather quickly(2hrs). Next it was over to VANDAL sit V9....this was the line that I would be featured doing......Neck? Stomach? Cmon...give me a break.

Rami and I bush wacked thru to the Valley and got to Vanadal about 10 minutes ahead of the film crew...brushed up the holds....and since it had been a while since the FA of Vandal I had to recall my beta. Holds cleaned and chalked, beta revived.....fuck you stomach and piss off neck....IM READY. Every thing was going to go my way right?

One scary slip off the later 3rd of the problem(no spotters allowed) scraped up my elbow alittle, but after that all went well and we wrapped up the filming of Vandal and my neck hung in there. Next we went down to Tsunami V8 and Rami killed it like 5 times in a row and thats that.....Moores short coming out next month ...maybe on Deadpoint Mag site as well as LT11.....phyched.

After we enjoyed a few beers and Mexican food at MI PUEBLO in king. Very tasty food ...I was impressed. Oh I almost forgot to mention after meeting Jordan and Zoes dog...I want a greyhound...they rock.

Other Highlights

Jared ande Eric did Busta V8...werd up

Thursday Boone Session

Went to Boone yesterday and it was so good. The temps were perfect maybe 65 to 70 and the sky was a perfect shade of blue. Fall is so sick....I have such a hard time with deciding if which is better fall/spring? The trees in Boone are looking very nice also , nearing full color already reds,yellows,greens...beautiful! It did seem like there was a little rain the day before however things had dried up nicely.

We started off at Sassafras so that Alison could try both The feather v7 and The Fern v7/8(stand) also I wanted to give Vortex some goes as well, while Eric just wanted to run laps on everything haha. Alsion was very close on The Feather....all she needs to do now is go back and do it. She also broke the ice on The Fern stand and figured out some good beta!

The Fern

I got very close to doing Vortex...all I need to do is go back and complete this line...I fell or gave up rather at the top because its so dirty ...will bring wire brush and clean it up for the send next weekend...very phyched...its a little scary but fun.

Vortex

Next we bounced to Gma and I had really wanted to actually try Teamwork because it was wet everytime I had been to Gma in the last month...seriously always wet. Eric and Alison wanted to do Have guns so they headed down to the Great Roof area while I went over to Teamwork. Guess what? It was wet again..@1^#^&%@#&@$#@#%@*%#*@%#@&%#&@%#!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Luckily the starting holds and the sloper for the first move were dry...so I was able to do the first part and get my beta ready for when it is dry...its way better than it looks....I have to let my feet cut on the first move and hold it to get the right foot up to the crimp and then toe hook...very phyched to do this....hopefully I can do the mantle!

Then after trying Teamwork I went down to hook up with those guys and they were both close to sending...eric was doing keep traveling V9 and allison regular have guns V7. Have Guns

Next I gave Sunday Service V11 some goes....ouch this rig is rough...I got to the dyno first go but never made any more progress, not sure if i can do the dyno move its crazy,need some beta....Nate? Then......ummmm......I had been looking at Masochist for like 6 months before and well never felt like sacking up and getting on this V10 break a leg highball on the far left tall side of the great roof..........ok...im scared! It involves a big first move off a sharp but good left and and a side pull/undecling for your right...high step the right foot and pull on to go big to a jug.....so sick... Cant wait to go back ...so many projects now

Masochist

So the comp was so much fun.....for me its all about hanging out,chillin with old friends and discovering new ones. I got up to boone around 2pm on thursday and was so ready to help out Jim Horton and the gang set up,tape up, and finally clear tape the problems . Yes that was my position this year...the clear tape guy. You see without the clear tape the labels would simply melt in the rain. I was so important....i mean the whole comp hinged on my ability to clear tape a problems label. Oh yeag I also chalked up the holds....you know I looked at the line ...saw the holds...and chalked them. SICK!!!!!!!!!

Also I was in charge of taking the VIP up the hill so they didnt have to endure the bus.....JRHEE,ABBY,Rami,Brian C,etc...you know...the big wigs...I had to entertain them with the beats in the rover and hob nobbing with the guard at the gate...yeah we know each other.

Highlights

Project plowshare link up v10

Mr.Thick v9

THE Fern V10?!!!......#######

Oh yeah.....

The hike to Sassafras is well worth the prime stone to be had! Nice little river in the middle of the hike....... and .......steep smoggy misty uphill....and then 20 minutes .....and then you are there!! No really its good.....

ZMustdolist...

The Feather V7...this thing is so cool. Jug start , then big move to a right hand crimp and then pause match with the left hand or just jump for crimp and mantle!!!

The Fern V10... was very cool....it has a fern growing in the middle of the problem and we all(Eric, Steph and I) took it very seriously...Do Not Touch the fern...it is special!!!!!

Twice Upon a timeV10... is next......

Flagyl after ...Im also phyched for Teamwork

This 10, Tens thing is rad!!!!!!

BOONE AND TEN 10's

OK......so the season is getting closer and closer. So phyched for the end of hot weather and the beginning of saturday and or sunday being an outdoor climbing session. Yes, as the title says its all about Boone this season and my pursuit of sending ten V10's this season. This is a tall order for myself however I feel like it will motivate me to get er done ....strange how just saying something can jump start the actual event!!!!!!! I have been going to Moores Wall for so long now over and over and over and over....you see its not that I dont like Moores wall its just that it limits my ability to get stronger, to move forward , to get PHYCHED! Its so close to home nearly half the distance from here to Boone....this is why I went so often, less time in the car and more time to climb. Lets face it Gmom,Blowing rock,221,Houndears its all way better than Moores ...ouch...I know it hurts to say but its the truth and I dont care anymore about the simple logistics that Moores has to offer Im going to get XM radio , beef up the ipod and have a good lookin travel partner(rami and or eric..haha) and hit the freakin road son.

The List

-------------------------------------

1. Twice upon a time

2. Teamwork

3.Flagyl

4.Room with an Arete

5. Project Plow Share link up

6.The Fern(done....off the list)

7. Bedaphile sit

8.Black 45

9.Bertha

10. Vortex

Well there it is....I said it Ten 10's

Lets hope the Rover will put up with he constant traveling because Imn grounded from the Honda because I dont keep it clean enough for the boss..haha

A plus to going in the Rover is that I get to take Lilly...well when I feel like dealing with her ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

EHHHHH......

Ok..so it has been really hot lately and I feel like I have been living in the gym. Not that the gym is so bad, in fact I think the TRC is the Bomb Dizzle and I love the scene there.....the people ....my new addiction....VERVE>>>> its all good but its still the gym!! Its crazy how phyched you can get right before the send of your project outside.......for me It goes like this

1. I have all the beta memorized and so embedded in my thick scull that I could spray you down from across the country.

2. I have the shoes freshly waxed and the chalk bag is loaded with fairy dust.

3.I have ingested enough coffee to rot a whole in my stomach

4.I have talked it over with my mom and she says its ok to murder

5.Then i can feel it coming.....I start to tremble, butterflies are goin.....................BOOM!!!!

This is what I live for...that moment!!!!!

NOW WHAT?

It takes me about ten minutes to be over that feeling and wanting it again.  I feel like some serial dating ho who has to hit and run their whole lives ....but thats ok...thats who I am in the climbing world a hit'n and run'n ho with no regrets along the way.

These are the types of blog updates you get when summers here....sorry

COLORADO DAYDREAMIN

OK....so its a little late and the same as rami's blog update however here it is..........

After we landed and waited an extra hour for my pad to arrive we swept up the rental car and headed to clear creek canyon to Animal V10......this thing is rad!!!!! The water is raging class 6 rapids, so loud you could barely hear me murder this rig in less than 2hrs.....shortly after I only thought it was fair to my pad to let it surf these beautiful water lines......I mean really after all your pad does for you....shouldnt we treat them a little better?  My pad murdered the white water and had to eddy before he got sea sick.

Sick run bra!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Happy bday to me and we peaced out for boulder.........

AHHHHHHHH

Yeah like everybody either climbs, bikes,australian rappells or walks their dog here.

Anyway we went to Nates...aka the hilton on the hill and let me tell you the accomidations were lovely!!!!!! I stayed in the upper level suite with my pad....he was still all wet from his send of the upper class 6 rapid send and this made for an interesting nites sleep. I drank like 3 big beers from the liquor mart and went to nite nite after crushing at fooseball at Max's crib.

We woke up the next day and chilled at the coffee shop for a minute or 2 and headed to Rmnp with Dave and Carolyn Nate and Brian ....The Brian voges!!!!!!!!!!! The hike was bad but not crazy bad....

The view

We went to the Gobot v11 area and warmed up on the classic autobot v5........this thing was super good and a little scary....basically if you fell you would tumble down a sloped boulder to a scabed up ass casm. After this we went over to the Marble V12 which has a V10 start that I did all the moves on but didnt link....I want to go back for this one $ sure. Checked out Handicapps,deep puddle dynamics and Tommys arete ...all good stuff.

Da crew

We headed to Denver to hook up with Kevin Brown and crash at his crib. While we were there we checked out his new gym he opened up with Lee Payne in denver 

.....The DBC...................................Thats The Denver Bouldering Club!!!

It was rad and I set a v6 boulder problem to leave my mark.

Next we wanted to go check out Mt.Evans area B

Mt Evans

We warmed up on the ladder v2.....and I did makers mark v5 second go. We headed over to Bierstadt v10. This thing is rad, I got to the last move first go and never sent....booooooooo!

Bierstadt......with the beaver face!

Next we headed up the hill to Dali V9...also very rad line I sent quickly and considered it soft for 9 but very cool

Dali

All in all a good trip ...going back soon to send the Marble, Bierstadt,Deep puddle,and Cage free.

I miss the area already... its very safe to say that im going back in august for a long weekend to send and also check out the Denver area for housing as we are looking to make a move with our company and ourselves.

Respect the Yukon!!!!