Sunday Service

Benchmark.......

Just some thoughts about Grades at Moores Wall.....some people were asking what was good and what was great! These problems I highlighted are good examples of classics at the grade.

SOLID

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V5=The Nick ***

V6=Proper Mod sit ***

V7=Vandal stand ***

V8=Agent Orange sit ***

V9=Left Octagon start **

V10=Orange Crush sit ***

SOFT(this doesnt mean its easy)

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V5=The Pit *

V6=Lost Boys sit **

V7=Cuisan *

V8=Tsunami ***

V9=Center Octagon *

V10=Stigmata ***

Also Kevin Perrone was wondering what was good in the V9 category..

Boone

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Ominous Roof V9 (little soft for grade)

Break Up V9

Instinct V9 (soft)

Bertha V9

Moores Wall

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Black Sheep V9

Masterlock into Locksmith V9 (soft)

Vandal Sit V9

Stone Mt

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Rage V9

Next time...

Went to G ma today. Solo. Kinda. Met up with my homie Pat Goodman. He showed me a boulder that I had never seen before. Cool face climbing on small crimps. Not my thing but still cool. Really tall. Maybe 25ft or so. The first 10ft, tiny holds. The next 15 the big ones. BTW funny how jugs can feel so small when your afraid. Pat showed a line to me that he said hadn't been done. DONDE! Silly sit to a jug then to a good side pull with your right, big move to a tiny left backhand. Fight a weird barn door. Stab a big slot with your right, match and top it out. FA! holla. I called it, "Success is like suicide" thank you Jay Z. V5/6 I guess. Last time out was kinda bad for me. Didn't have a good day. Too much CROSSFIT! Very sore. No core tension, lats weak, pecs hurtin'. Worked/Flailed on Machismo V8, which needs all of those muscles. Today was much different. Almost murdered it first go. WHUT. It was kinda wet at the top which sucked. next time. Headed up to the Mighty Mouse boulder. Pat showed me this other problem on it called Space Cat V8. Shits cool! Never even seen this thing before. After Pat hooked me the beta i went to work. Cool start, slappy moves, heel hook, and a huge go again to a hard match on a bad sloper. High foot and your out kinda thing. Holla at me if you wanna know beta. Its worth it. We both almost sent but once again...next time. We were getting tired so we thought a different style of climbing would be better for us so we headed down to Have Guns Keep Traveling V9. Crimpy traverse. Duh. I pretty much HIKED it to the rest jug. Then, FAIL. Tank was on empty. Sigh. I worked on the hard no feet campus part and it felt kinda easy considering it being the end of the day. Oh well...next time. If the weather holds out for the weekend I should have a pretty good day...next time.

The Season Is On

Well so we are almost to the end of October and the temps have been pretty good so far. Seems like it's been raining quite a lot in Boonetown but I've managed to get up there three times already. I finished up Novocain (V6) but it seems like every time I get one problem off the project list, five more rush in to take its place. For me now Left Out (V8) is the new obsession. For those of you who don't know the crimps on that thing might be the tiniest ever. Anyway, here are some pics from last year. Hopefully the crew will all get back to Boone together soon, damn you rain!!!!

Rami - Portabello (V9)

the author on Novocain (V6)

Castle Rock ,CA

Classic Hueco Wall V5

Welcome Alison

WERD! first post to the GROUP BLOG!!! Moore's wall yesterday. first time for this season and it was pretty good. kinda cold, a little damp but still good. didn't really have an agenda except for Steph wanting to do some work on Hidden In Plain Veiw. can you say high-ball! BAWSSE! shiz it like 30ft high. scary i think plus it has a semi-talus landing. no bueno tio. she worked out all the beta to about 10ft or so. needs another scout out and more pads and i think it will go. pre-spray FFA! I screwed around on Busta V8, one of Rodney's rigs from back in the day. i always thought it looked cool but DAMN it looked hard. really small hold for you left hand, maybe 1/4 pad crimp. oh, and down sloping. tried Rodney's beta for a few tries and was like nope. i'm gonna move on. then Steph was like "try a right heal hook." hummm... 4 0r five goes later Donde! really fun problem. my fingers hurt today. Jared sent right after i did for the "1-2" oh, Jared worked on Masterlock V9 a bit too and i shot a few photos. Addam also did Big Up V6. it was touch and go there for a sec. his skin was fading fast due to the sharpness of the route but he sent and made it his bitch. swole.