Sunday, April 26, 2009

Searching...Searching...for the Newness

Yesterday my  boy Eric Nyc and I went to Moores to check out the rock thats below the road on the right as your driving into the park proper(strong valley). This stuff looked so promising and I had heard people were there back in the day puttin up the goods. We got a pretty early start for sunday and we were at Moores by 1045 am. We had to park on the side of the road and decided to throw the shirt in the window to look like we were outta gas and would return shortly...haha smoke and mirrors for the rangers. As I was parking the honda i got to close to the guard rail and crunched a big divot in the car door.....shit,piss,ass....crap!!!!!!!!!!!! This was very dissapointing to say the least. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!

OK...lets start the hike....this shit was steep downhill and very loose ground.  John pro and I had made the half hike in before but turned around.  As we pushed on we ran into alot of very big boulders/cliffs that had good rock quality but not really set up for bouldering, these were about halfway down. We could hear the creek running strong and were ready to see whats what down the valley.......then we hit the mangrove/rhodo forrest....holy thick ass shit. This was like some eco- challenge race in peru!!!!! I was crawling at points on the knees getting jabbed in the eye by thorns, chased by wild turkeys and giant toads. REALLY!!!!!!  All for the glory of finding the new hueco/joes valley... sick badass area...oh yeah its just sitting there ready to be owned!!!!!!
So we finally reach the creek at the bottom of the valley and  its like sunny 85 degrees...itchy and bleeding I run straight into a kick ass boulder(alot like asheboros steepest)...right in the middle of the creek....running water and small falls surrounding it. This thing is so cool........its about 6 feet wide and 12 feet long. You end up using both sides and slap your way out.....the start holds are good....left hand sloping edge right hand small crimp..........slap out with left hand twice  with your heel hooked nicely,then scum your right foot by the right hand crimp and smack for a right hand sloping hold thats ok...hold that....heel your right foot on that crimp and smack twice to the lip and press it out.................... werd  BULLFROG v6 is born!!!!!!!!
Everything else down there was ok...little chossy or too big.........but the creek bed is promising...we didnt search but maybe a third of the creek bed area but the rock was sooo good...softened by the water flow and sick roof features, however the thickness of the rhodos was alot to deal with........maybe something there worth it!!!!!

Sunday, April 19, 2009


Well the season is starting to slow down, but I am not ready....i want more outta this year.  Yesterday we went to moores wall...again...and I have to admit that it was fun just tooling around......doing the casual pressure expectations!!!!! First we went to the masterlock wall and warmed up...took a brief look at the right exit to the pit, this is hard no matter how you slice it. We wanted to check out this potential new line on the tall side of the sherman pocket roof boulder. This line looked very chossy and dirty up top so we moved on to Gravity Cavity area. I bet its been 4 years since I had been up to these problems.
Waterboy V7
Top Shelf V6
Gravity Cavity V5
Hustler V5
Anna Pornakova V5
Eric Owens and I did waterboy and Eric Danielson and Eric Owens did the 2nd and third ascents...i Top Shelf. I did Gravity Cavity and Anna Porn also. 

All week I had been thinking of my new obsession....THORNS SIT V10/11. This thing is goona be rad!!!!!!  I am not sure if it will go in the hot weather .....however Nate is coming back soon to work for my company and I have a feeling we will work it out. Last summer it was Black Sheep V9...this season ender might prove to be alot harder than that. It starts off with a lockoff move from 2 small crimps up to a very muted 2 finger sloping  edge ...this edge is the one hold that  may be weather dependent....not sure....from there you have to cut your feet and heel your right on a good ledge and pause on a very small edge with your right then fire  to the original right hand start crimp(sharp) bring your left hand up to the left edge, get your feet up and do the dyno to a half pad edge 5 feet over the lip...hold the swing and get your foot up to do the crux reach to a bad sloper and your out....ahhhhhhh cant wait!!!!!

Thursday, April 16, 2009


Stigmata I finally did this rig!!!!!!!! I had to use retarded beta to do it but it worked to my suprise.