Sunday, December 16, 2012
Well its been a while since I posted anything in this blog. Mostly due to laziness and no camera for pics of local updates etc. Its been really good lately at Moores Wall, I have been doing alot of new stuff with Greg Loomis this season. Greg has got mad phyched on cleaning up boulders that need to be done, and as a result they are! One of the first to go down was the "tough mudder"v6. This is connected to the tsunami boulder, its a overhanging lip traverse with a spict high top out. Tough mudder is the direct version and if you want full value continue out the full lip traverse for "ode to eric"v7*(high ball).
Another classic line that went up was "white monster" V7/8. This is the overhanging boulder below Orange crush. Jp had done a version of this and called it "lardo"V6, this new line shares the same start however finishes up different....sooo fun. I also finished up "unsettled sit" V8/9 at the octagon boulder, this thing is really good. I cant believe we never tried the line before last season. I fired this rig quickly upon my return this season, thankfully....cause its sharp.
In the main area I have had my way with the blinded boulder, adding" hidden in plain hype"v8. This is the far right start to blinded by the hype and is so amazing. Also on the blinded boulder I did the far right slab, well not really a slab but kinda for one move or so. Basically starting on the far right jugs you go straight up and trend right on the face, called this one" blinded by the light" v5. I almost linked it in from the far left side of the blinded boulder from matched crimp, almost ....next trip for sure. I think this will check in around V8/9. I hope that in the end I will also link the far left start into hidden in plain view which would be the most difficult link up on that boulder given the exposure of the upper section, psyched.
Also in the valley we added another start to "iron chuff". Greg snagged it from me calling it "biddle battle"7b. This thing climbs so well . Starting far right on the boulder you link into iron chuff and do same finish. In the end it wasnt as hard as suspected given the beta that greg figured out. It adds enough to make the middle/ending more interesting as you are pumped for the slopey finish.
New thoughts on some grades of some problems
1. Busta 7b
2. Handthrax v7
3. Tsunami sit v9
4. Lardo v6/7