Sunday, December 16, 2012

Moores wall update

Well its been a while since I posted anything in this blog. Mostly due to laziness and no camera for pics of local updates etc. Its been really good lately at Moores Wall, I have been doing alot of new stuff with Greg Loomis this season. Greg has got mad phyched on cleaning up boulders that need to be done, and as a result they are! One of the first to go down was the "tough mudder"v6. This is connected to the tsunami boulder, its a overhanging lip traverse with a spict high top out. Tough mudder is the direct version and if you want full value continue out the full lip traverse for "ode to eric"v7*(high ball).
Another classic line that went up was "white monster" V7/8. This is the overhanging boulder below Orange crush. Jp had done a version of this and called it "lardo"V6, this new line shares the same start however finishes up different....sooo fun. I also finished up "unsettled sit" V8/9 at the octagon boulder, this thing is really good. I cant believe we never tried the line before last season. I fired this rig quickly upon my return this season, thankfully....cause its sharp.
In the main area I have had my way with the blinded boulder, adding" hidden in plain hype"v8. This is the far right start to blinded by the hype and is so amazing.  Also on the blinded boulder I did the far right slab, well not really a slab but kinda for one move or so. Basically starting on the far right jugs you go straight up and trend right on the face, called this one" blinded by the light" v5. I almost linked it in from the far left side of the blinded boulder from matched crimp, almost trip for sure. I think this will check in around V8/9. I hope that in the end I will also link the far left start into hidden in plain view which would be the most difficult link up on that boulder given the exposure of the upper section, psyched.
Also in the valley we added another start to "iron chuff". Greg snagged it from me calling it "biddle battle"7b. This thing climbs so well . Starting far right on the boulder you link into iron chuff and do same finish. In the end it wasnt as hard as suspected given the beta that greg figured out.  It adds enough to make the middle/ending more interesting as you are pumped for the slopey finish.
New thoughts on some grades of some problems
1. Busta 7b
2. Handthrax v7
3. Tsunami sit v9
4. Lardo v6/7

Monday, December 26, 2011

ego burst

Well, it has been a very long time since I last posted something on this blog. Why? EEhh. No! Wait, what? Yeah....frustration with life! Nothing really dramatic but I have been working like a mule to build my business and trying to get back into shape in the gym. It seems I fell into a really bad rhythm while I was injured..........not climbing!!! You see I spent 1 and a half years not training for climbing, and now that I am able to train it seems that my passion, my love for climbing has gone away. WTF? I was so used to just not going that even now Im ok with missing a day or 2 at the gym or not going out for the weekend or getting phyched at all. I hit v8 and was like .....whatever? Not that v8 is cutting edge or anywhere near that but what it is to me is progress from the injury hole I was in. I am 40 now and I kinda feel like I need THE CLIMBING WHISPERER. There was a time when I couldn't imagine my life without a single day off from training , it didn't matter if it was the gym, the tunnel in chapel hill, the vertical egde(ewwww). Shit I spent a decade in the vertical edge on 1 angle, 1 wall, a fucking decade! So phyched! Its not the injury Im fighting anymore, its my ego? Im ok with not being as strong as I used to be!!!!!!!!!! Im ok not being as strong as I used to be!!!!!!!!!!! Wait say it again and mean it.................(silence). not!
It seems my inability to shut my ego up has gotten in the way. I always knew that it would. I cant be ok with just enjoying the sport ? I cant just be happy with the fact that I am able to participate ? Its sad really.....I sat in my office and watched videos, bitched,called old climbing buddies drunk like you would an X girlfriend looking for some ass @3am trying to feel connected to the sport while I was down. Well it seems the turning 40 and injury double whammy of last year really got in my head.
Progression is what this shiz is all about.....progress =happiness and direction. I am seeing progress , I am not injured......but still I struggle. I need something new, I need to feel connected to my sport again..........and I need some new shoes. Kurt if you are reading this I just wanted to say that I am very upset that you didn't respond to my 2,000 email request for free shoes, I mean cm on I called your house, your moms house, emailed your dad and still nothing.
Now its over Kurt, im buying five tens...ha!

Monday, July 4, 2011

Colorado Visit


The Hike into Evans is so beautiful and soft in terms of Colorado Alpine approach. We(tina and I) arrived at the airport around 11am and by 2pm we were at the area. Met up with Big Kevin Brown(owner of Denver Bouldering Club)long time friend......... Alison(freelance lawyer) and Kevin Perrone(healed the neck) and Scott and quickly I felt all the stress of the east coast go to the corner of my busy mind. After having not been outside climbing for a year and a half(ouch) this was a treat. I had alot of goals 2 years prior in Colorado and knew that I wasnt in that kinda shape yet but still wanted to reconnect with these projects and areas.
Good friends
Kevin doing his best uni-bomber look
Mirror Mask v10
Mirror Mask is the stand start to Big Wormv14. This thing is so good .....big holds, big moves...heel hooks...yerp. BTW Nate did the mad props to him. Big Kev and I were very excited about the stand(minus the ending...rock in way kinda). We both got close but no send......going back in july to finish her off.
Mirror Mask v10
Kevin got very close and had the first part dialed in and I thought for sure he was going to do it right then and there...this would be his first v10(I think)...way phyched for him as he has gotten very strong and looking fit. As I sit here typing Im sure he is working it proper. Cant wait to get back there in july and also hit up RMNP as it was snowed in on this trip ...arrrgggghh!!!

Saturday, May 14, 2011


Well its been a long hard road to healing my neck and getting back into the gym but it looks like im finally there. I have been going to the TRC now for about 2 months and feeling better every trip. I have been able to climb 5.12 / v5/6 and still the injury is holding strong. The more controlled my movement the better and Im starting to learn alot of technique that will help keep things good. As far as the v10 goal for this fall, I know that I can get back into that kinda shape, but will the neck let me dyno or go real hard for a move or 2?
Focusing on just being content with climbing at all, and really feeling good about getting back out there and hanging with friends.......cause thats what its all about!!!!
Going to Colorado for my bday at the end of June and maybe hitting up some old projects?
Hoping to have some rad summer climbing updates, but...........