Sunday, March 29, 2009
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
So this weekend was soooooo very good. The weather was perfect and the friction was impeccable to say the least. It all started with a heavy work day friday that killed my back but not my motivation. I called it quits at around 3:30 and snatched up Eric from Duke and we were off to Boone. Wow we got there very quickly....maybe 2.5 hrs!!!!!! Due to the daylight savings plan we were able to go bouldering as soon as we arrived. So of course we head straight to the M1 boulder at 221 area and warm up on the v4 and quickly jump onto the V9 INSTINCT.......this thing is so good! Having already done the stand start I was phyched to see the sit.... INSTINCTUAL V10! Holy fucking dyno!!!! John you are a mad man, this span is so far....i could barely reach the hold....so this went no where fast but Im ready to try it some more later. Eric and I then started trying the stand and figured out that this was to tall for one pad and fading light...scary.
Off we went to 221 The Dump and we were very phyched to try Project Plowshare V10.
We started throwing ourselves around like rag dolls and made some pretty good progress(in the dark). Eric and I both stuck the first moves within 30 minutes but the dark shut us down...booooooooo!!!! So we headed to the crib and met up with the group...Allison,Moya,Rami,Beth,Ron,Kevin,myself and eric. Then we partied like Rock stars and ate like kings and queens....and smoked like hobbits...haha!!!!!!
Next morning was rough....wooo...to many beers dude. It seemed to go on forever....the coffee wasnt helping and I thought I may ralph, but it passed and we were off to M1 again to show everyone the V4 to warm up . Everybody was phyched about it and we stayed for an hour doing it over and over, it was actually pretty chilly also so it was good to get the blood flowing properly. So we packed up and headed back to the dump. Allison was geared up for Black magic woman V7 and I had one thing on my mind since the night before. Upon getting there we met up with John,Nate,Dave,and Vogues...they were doing Breakup V9/10...after a few was ups we headed down the hill to our probs. I was so ready to get it on and so was everyone else.
I got through the crux to the last move on my first go...wow this was suprising. Rami said he was going to flash but...haha. Anyway after a couple more goes I broke a key foot by accidently kicking the wall to stay on...ouch this hurts!!!! After some cursing and pissing and moaning I sent Project Plowshare next go.........werd em up! NOW WHAT? Ha
Rami sent Raw Meat sit v9
Kevin sent six pack for sure v6 and french roof v6
Allison also sent french roof v6
I repeated Raw meat and Raw Teeth
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Monday, March 9, 2009
ALISON VANDAL V7
Yo...after 2 weeks of being sick and body malfunctions and the weather problems....I actually went climbing yesterday. Lets start with the night before......wine,beer,wine,beer,wine....something about a time change and boom its 7am. Ouch, my head hurts!!!! So i hit the java and hit the road to hook up with my new friend Moya(she cool) and we head for moores to meet allison,kevin,eric,steph,and beth. On the way i get introduced to the" chai bomb"...props moya!
We get to moores and head for the Masterlock wall to warm up...within 30 minutes we were throwing ourselves at "Busta" V7/8.....this was very greazzzzy, I barely did it and so did the 5.10rep dude from Chapel hill. Moya did Lost Boys V4 and I also did Big Up v5. Gina and Tracey were also there and warmed up with us as well ...then we busted to Tsunami V7. This is Allisons proj and the rest of the group hadnt been there so......this thing was also very greazzzzy...It took me like 3 goes to do the stand and while Kevin P. and eric worked the sit. The good news is that allison worked out all the moves and I think will do it soon(sick).
After that we headed to The Vandal V7/V9. I have only repeated this thing once since I established the sit 2 to 3 years ago....so I was phyched to try it and got through the roof but didnt finish....IM TIRED. Finished the day off at Diagonal boulder and Moya,tracey and gina all sent the diagonal crack...props!!!