mas vid

Lilly Boulders Fall 2011 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

ego burst

Well, it has been a very long time since I last posted something on this blog. Why? EEhh. No! Wait, what? Yeah....frustration with life! Nothing really dramatic but I have been working like a mule to build my business and trying to get back into shape in the gym. It seems I fell into a really bad rhythm while I was injured..........not climbing!!! You see I spent 1 and a half years not training for climbing, and now that I am able to train it seems that my passion, my love for climbing has gone away. WTF? I was so used to just not going that even now Im ok with missing a day or 2 at the gym or not going out for the weekend or getting phyched at all. I hit v8 and was like .....whatever? Not that v8 is cutting edge or anywhere near that but what it is to me is progress from the injury hole I was in. I am 40 now and I kinda feel like I need THE CLIMBING WHISPERER. There was a time when I couldn't imagine my life without a single day off from training , it didn't matter if it was the gym, the tunnel in chapel hill, the vertical egde(ewwww). Shit I spent a decade in the vertical edge on 1 angle, 1 wall, a fucking decade! So phyched! Its not the injury Im fighting anymore, its my ego? Im ok with not being as strong as I used to be!!!!!!!!!! Im ok not being as strong as I used to be!!!!!!!!!!! Wait say it again and mean it.................(silence). Ok....im not!

It seems my inability to shut my ego up has gotten in the way. I always knew that it would. I cant be ok with just enjoying the sport ? I cant just be happy with the fact that I am able to participate ? Its sad really.....I sat in my office and watched videos, bitched,called old climbing buddies drunk like you would an X girlfriend looking for some ass @3am trying to feel connected to the sport while I was down. Well it seems the turning 40 and injury double whammy of last year really got in my head.

Progression is what this shiz is all about.....progress =happiness and direction. I am seeing progress , I am not injured......but still I struggle. I need something new, I need to feel connected to my sport again..........and I need some new shoes. Kurt if you are reading this I just wanted to say that I am very upset that you didn't respond to my 2,000 email request for free shoes, I mean cm on I called your house, your moms house, emailed your dad and still nothing.

Now its over Kurt, im buying five tens...ha!

The Swiss Account ~ Feature Length from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

Colorado Visit

MtEvans

The Hike into Evans is so beautiful and soft in terms of Colorado Alpine approach. We(tina and I) arrived at the airport around 11am and by 2pm we were at the area. Met up with Big Kevin Brown(owner of Denver Bouldering Club)long time friend......... Alison(freelance lawyer) and Kevin Perrone(healed the neck) and Scott and quickly I felt all the stress of the east coast go to the corner of my busy mind. After having not been outside climbing for a year and a half(ouch) this was a treat. I had alot of goals 2 years prior in Colorado and knew that I wasnt in that kinda shape yet but still wanted to reconnect with these projects and areas.

Good friends

Kevin doing his best uni-bomber look

Mirror Mask v10

Mirror Mask is the stand start to Big Wormv14. This thing is so good .....big holds, big moves...heel hooks...yerp. BTW Nate did the sit....yeah....wow mad props to him. Big Kev and I were very excited about the stand(minus the ending...rock in way kinda). We both got close but no send......going back in july to finish her off.

Mirror Mask v10

Kevin got very close and had the first part dialed in and I thought for sure he was going to do it right then and there...this would be his first v10(I think)...way phyched for him as he has gotten very strong and looking fit. As I sit here typing Im sure he is working it proper. Cant wait to get back there in july and also hit up RMNP as it was snowed in on this trip ...arrrgggghh!!!

Colorado in 3 weeks

Endovalley • Rocky Mountain National Park • Colorado • Flux for Life (V13) FA from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Comeback.....

Well its been a long hard road to healing my neck and getting back into the gym but it looks like im finally there. I have been going to the TRC now for about 2 months and feeling better every trip. I have been able to climb 5.12 / v5/6 and still the injury is holding strong. The more controlled my movement the better and Im starting to learn alot of technique that will help keep things good. As far as the v10 goal for this fall, I know that I can get back into that kinda shape, but will the neck let me dyno or go real hard for a move or 2?

Focusing on just being content with climbing at all, and really feeling good about getting back out there and hanging with friends.......cause thats what its all about!!!!

Going to Colorado for my bday at the end of June and maybe hitting up some old projects?

Hoping to have some rad summer climbing updates, but...........

Nate does Sunday service...yerp!

Nate and crew in HCR

Cold in Arkansas from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

This problem looks rad..8a Font

Adam Ondra

ADAM ONDRA - WARMING UP from BERNARTWOOD on Vimeo.

Mas Swiss

Guillaume Glairon Mondet in Ticino-Switzerland_December 2010 from Romain WOHLGROTH on Vimeo.