Monday, November 23, 2009
Well its been about 5 weeks since I have bouldered at all!!!! OMG......what am I doing with myself? This is so crazy....its so hard to just sit around and not train. I went to the gym yesterday and tried to climb around on jugs and couldnt really tell if its better or not. Its def not 100% for sure but I was just curious where I am in the healing game? Maybe 75%!!!!!!!! This gives me hope for getting back in the game before xmas....which if I go any longer It will be so much more work to come back. I have put on 6lbs...ehhh...not a big deal but I dont want that to become 10lbs...ouch! Today I am going to begin running....I feel like this will both fill my time now and give me an outlet for exercise.....I need to fuckin sweat or something!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Still havent gone to the doctor......mainly because im assuming its the same drill as before...narcotics and muscle relaxers....which dont sound helpful to me...well see!
Til Then....hope everyone else is sending!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
So One night last winter my boy Eric Owens from New York and I left for a long weekend in Boone. Allison had rented a cabin with a hot tub and fireplace near Houndears...Rami was down and we hit the road......Getting to Boone very late and hungry we decided to hit the store up for some groceries.....Dinner!!! Eric loves to cook and was phyched to prepare for us one of his favorites....BRUSSLE SPROUTS WITH BACON!!!!!!! Man....sounds good right...crispy Brussle sprouts with crispy bacon....all pan fried with a little canola oil....holla! So Rami is chopping up wood geting a fire going and Im watching videos of Nate sending portabella(v10...prob)...saw Daniel Woods flail on this rig 4 yrs before....and Eric...he is cooking up a storm...bacon aroma is flowing and brussles a cracklin? Rami.....get me a beer bitch! Hahahaha.....
Anyway....so we eat the hell outta the Brussle sprouts and Bacon and it was so good....I mean I was in the kitchen lickin up the fucking juice outta the pan....that good!!!!
Its kinda hard to really explain what happened next.....I mean you know when you tummy hurts and it gets alittle bloated? Well amplify that by 10 and were getting close.....I felt like I swallowed a ballon......OF GAS>>>>METHANE GAS>>>>YERP
Note.....DO not eat eat Brussle sprouts with Bacon!!!!!!!!....The Gas that occured that evening had me laughing like a teenage boy at times...and at others I needed a doctor....Really!!!!!! Note also that everyone was having the same experience and by luck the girls waited until the next day to show up at the cabin....wow close call.........
Here is Eric on Octagon left V9(solid)ha
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Just some thoughts about Grades at Moores Wall.....some people were asking what was good and what was great! These problems I highlighted are good examples of classics at the grade.
V5=The Nick ***
V6=Proper Mod sit ***
V7=Vandal stand ***
V8=Agent Orange sit ***
V9=Left Octagon start **
V10=Orange Crush sit ***
SOFT(this doesnt mean its easy)
V5=The Pit *
V6=Lost Boys sit **
V9=Center Octagon *
Also Kevin Perrone was wondering what was good in the V9 category..
Ominous Roof V9 (little soft for grade)
Break Up V9
Instinct V9 (soft)
Black Sheep V9
Masterlock into Locksmith V9 (soft)
Vandal Sit V9
Monday, October 26, 2009
Went to G ma today. Solo. Kinda. Met up with my homie Pat Goodman. He showed me a boulder that I had never seen before. Cool face climbing on small crimps. Not my thing but still cool. Really tall. Maybe 25ft or so. The first 10ft, tiny holds. The next 15 the big ones. BTW funny how jugs can feel so small when your afraid. Pat showed a line to me that he said hadn't been done. DONDE! Silly sit to a jug then to a good side pull with your right, big move to a tiny left backhand. Fight a weird barn door. Stab a big slot with your right, match and top it out. FA! holla. I called it, "Success is like suicide" thank you Jay Z. V5/6 I guess. Last time out was kinda bad for me. Didn't have a good day. Too much CROSSFIT! Very sore. No core tension, lats weak, pecs hurtin'. Worked/Flailed on Machismo V8, which needs all of those muscles. Today was much different. Almost murdered it first go. WHUT. It was kinda wet at the top which sucked. next time. Headed up to the Mighty Mouse boulder. Pat showed me this other problem on it called Space Cat V8. Shits cool! Never even seen this thing before. After Pat hooked me the beta i went to work. Cool start, slappy moves, heel hook, and a huge go again to a hard match on a bad sloper. High foot and your out kinda thing. Holla at me if you wanna know beta. Its worth it. We both almost sent but once again...next time. We were getting tired so we thought a different style of climbing would be better for us so we headed down to Have Guns Keep Traveling V9. Crimpy traverse. Duh. I pretty much HIKED it to the rest jug. Then, FAIL. Tank was on empty. Sigh. I worked on the hard no feet campus part and it felt kinda easy considering it being the end of the day. Oh well...next time. If the weather holds out for the weekend I should have a pretty good day...next time.
Well so we are almost to the end of October and the temps have been pretty good so far. Seems like it's been raining quite a lot in Boonetown but I've managed to get up there three times already. I finished up Novocain (V6) but it seems like every time I get one problem off the project list, five more rush in to take its place. For me now Left Out (V8) is the new obsession. For those of you who don't know the crimps on that thing might be the tiniest ever. Anyway, here are some pics from last year. Hopefully the crew will all get back to Boone together soon, damn you rain!!!!
Rami - Portabello (V9)
the author on Novocain (V6)
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Monday, October 19, 2009
WERD! first post to the GROUP BLOG!!! Moore's wall yesterday. first time for this season and it was pretty good. kinda cold, a little damp but still good. didn't really have an agenda except for Steph wanting to do some work on Hidden In Plain Veiw. can you say high-ball! BAWSSE! shiz it like 30ft high. scary i think plus it has a semi-talus landing. no bueno tio. she worked out all the beta to about 10ft or so. needs another scout out and more pads and i think it will go. pre-spray FFA! I screwed around on Busta V8, one of Rodney's rigs from back in the day. i always thought it looked cool but DAMN it looked hard. really small hold for you left hand, maybe 1/4 pad crimp. oh, and down sloping. tried Rodney's beta for a few tries and was like nope. i'm gonna move on. then Steph was like "try a right heal hook." hummm... 4 0r five goes later Donde! really fun problem. my fingers hurt today. Jared sent right after i did for the "1-2" oh, Jared worked on Masterlock V9 a bit too and i shot a few photos. Addam also did Big Up V6. it was touch and go there for a sec. his skin was fading fast due to the sharpness of the route but he sent and made it his bitch. swole.
So yesterday Nate Draughn, Rami Annab, and myself had the pleasure of giving Jordan Shipman(owner and operator of LT11) the tour of Moores Wall bouldering. The day started off for me at 4am...wow...I knew that I had to get up at 530am but woke up at 4am and just couldnt get back to sleep. I had alot on my mind...Work....little crazy right now as well as the filming we would be doing that day. I had injured my neck about 8yrs ago and it was pretty rough...herniated c7 disk...ouch...outta the game for 6 months and hating the down time. So in the gym setting for the latest comp at TRC I felt that same tweak on a dyno move.....now it had been 8yrs with no hint of the neck drama...but now it reared its ugly head or neck.......ouch. Was I going to be able to send for the camera? FOR HOLLYWOOD? HAHA>>>>
Was I going to be mid crux and my neck explode? So many stupid thoughts were racing around my foggy mind. Anyway its like I said 4am and im up like drinking coffee, feeding Lilly....she is looking at me with such disgust....why are we up eating at 4am...that look?! So I do lots of coffee and hit the road, getting to the food lion in King at about 725am to meet up with the boys.
Its maybe 40 degrees and the wind is blowing and I had to drink half a bottle of Pepto Bismol.....because ....well....ummmm....things were not looking good for being athletic!....stomach?....neck?...wtf??????
We had to shoot alot of entry scenes which was fun ...Zoe Wilson....Jordans girl... also has A ROVER...so it was double rover intro...nice! We headed down to the North End first ....as Nate was being filmed on Orange Crush sit V10. This rig is rough.....solid V10....very cool compression moves on steep arete. Nate had to warm up on this hahahahahaaaha.....no really! It went very well and Nate completed the filming there rather quickly(2hrs). Next it was over to VANDAL sit V9....this was the line that I would be featured doing......Neck? Stomach? Cmon...give me a break.
Rami and I bush wacked thru to the Valley and got to Vanadal about 10 minutes ahead of the film crew...brushed up the holds....and since it had been a while since the FA of Vandal I had to recall my beta. Holds cleaned and chalked, beta revived.....fuck you stomach and piss off neck....IM READY. Every thing was going to go my way right?
One scary slip off the later 3rd of the problem(no spotters allowed) scraped up my elbow alittle, but after that all went well and we wrapped up the filming of Vandal and my neck hung in there. Next we went down to Tsunami V8 and Rami killed it like 5 times in a row and thats that.....Moores short coming out next month ...maybe on Deadpoint Mag site as well as LT11.....phyched.
After we enjoyed a few beers and Mexican food at MI PUEBLO in king. Very tasty food ...I was impressed. Oh I almost forgot to mention after meeting Jordan and Zoes dog...I want a greyhound...they rock.
Jared ande Eric did Busta V8...werd up
Friday, October 9, 2009
Went to Boone yesterday and it was so good. The temps were perfect maybe 65 to 70 and the sky was a perfect shade of blue. Fall is so sick....I have such a hard time with deciding if which is better fall/spring? The trees in Boone are looking very nice also , nearing full color already reds,yellows,greens...beautiful! It did seem like there was a little rain the day before however things had dried up nicely.
We started off at Sassafras so that Alison could try both The feather v7 and The Fern v7/8(stand) also I wanted to give Vortex some goes as well, while Eric just wanted to run laps on everything haha. Alsion was very close on The Feather....all she needs to do now is go back and do it. She also broke the ice on The Fern stand and figured out some good beta!
I got very close to doing Vortex...all I need to do is go back and complete this line...I fell or gave up rather at the top because its so dirty ...will bring wire brush and clean it up for the send next weekend...very phyched...its a little scary but fun.
Next we bounced to Gma and I had really wanted to actually try Teamwork because it was wet everytime I had been to Gma in the last month...seriously always wet. Eric and Alison wanted to do Have guns so they headed down to the Great Roof area while I went over to Teamwork. Guess what? It was wet again..@1^#^&%@#&@$#@#%@*%#*@%#@&%#&@%#!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Luckily the starting holds and the sloper for the first move were dry...so I was able to do the first part and get my beta ready for when it is dry...its way better than it looks....I have to let my feet cut on the first move and hold it to get the right foot up to the crimp and then toe hook...very phyched to do this....hopefully I can do the mantle!
Then after trying Teamwork I went down to hook up with those guys and they were both close to sending...eric was doing keep traveling V9 and allison regular have guns V7. Have Guns
Next I gave Sunday Service V11 some goes....ouch this rig is rough...I got to the dyno first go but never made any more progress, not sure if i can do the dyno move its crazy,need some beta....Nate? Then......ummmm......I had been looking at Masochist for like 6 months before and well never felt like sacking up and getting on this V10 break a leg highball on the far left tall side of the great roof..........ok...im scared! It involves a big first move off a sharp but good left and and a side pull/undecling for your right...high step the right foot and pull on to go big to a jug.....so sick... Cant wait to go back ...so many projects now
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
So the comp was so much fun.....for me its all about hanging out,chillin with old friends and discovering new ones. I got up to boone around 2pm on thursday and was so ready to help out Jim Horton and the gang set up,tape up, and finally clear tape the problems . Yes that was my position this year...the clear tape guy. You see without the clear tape the labels would simply melt in the rain. I was so important....i mean the whole comp hinged on my ability to clear tape a problems label. Oh yeag I also chalked up the holds....you know I looked at the line ...saw the holds...and chalked them. SICK!!!!!!!!!
Also I was in charge of taking the VIP up the hill so they didnt have to endure the bus.....JRHEE,ABBY,Rami,Brian C,etc...you know...the big wigs...I had to entertain them with the beats in the rover and hob nobbing with the guard at the gate...yeah we know each other.
Project plowshare link up v10
Monday, September 14, 2009
The hike to Sassafras is well worth the prime stone to be had! Nice little river in the middle of the hike....... and .......steep smoggy misty uphill....and then 20 minutes .....and then you are there!! No really its good.....
The Feather V7...this thing is so cool. Jug start , then big move to a right hand crimp and then pause match with the left hand or just jump for crimp and mantle!!!
The Fern V10... was very cool....it has a fern growing in the middle of the problem and we all(Eric, Steph and I) took it very seriously...Do Not Touch the fern...it is special!!!!!
Twice Upon a timeV10... is next......
Flagyl after ...Im also phyched for Teamwork
This 10, Tens thing is rad!!!!!!
Sunday, August 30, 2009
OK......so the season is getting closer and closer. So phyched for the end of hot weather and the beginning of saturday and or sunday being an outdoor climbing session. Yes, as the title says its all about Boone this season and my pursuit of sending ten V10's this season. This is a tall order for myself however I feel like it will motivate me to get er done ....strange how just saying something can jump start the actual event!!!!!!! I have been going to Moores Wall for so long now over and over and over and over....you see its not that I dont like Moores wall its just that it limits my ability to get stronger, to move forward , to get PHYCHED! Its so close to home nearly half the distance from here to Boone....this is why I went so often, less time in the car and more time to climb. Lets face it Gmom,Blowing rock,221,Houndears its all way better than Moores ...ouch...I know it hurts to say but its the truth and I dont care anymore about the simple logistics that Moores has to offer Im going to get XM radio , beef up the ipod and have a good lookin travel partner(rami and or eric..haha) and hit the freakin road son.
1. Twice upon a time
4.Room with an Arete
5. Project Plow Share link up
6.The Fern(done....off the list)
7. Bedaphile sit
Well there it is....I said it Ten 10's
Lets hope the Rover will put up with he constant traveling because Imn grounded from the Honda because I dont keep it clean enough for the boss..haha
A plus to going in the Rover is that I get to take Lilly...well when I feel like dealing with her ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Ok..so it has been really hot lately and I feel like I have been living in the gym. Not that the gym is so bad, in fact I think the TRC is the Bomb Dizzle and I love the scene there.....the people ....my new addiction....VERVE>>>> its all good but its still the gym!! Its crazy how phyched you can get right before the send of your project outside.......for me It goes like this
1. I have all the beta memorized and so embedded in my thick scull that I could spray you down from across the country.
2. I have the shoes freshly waxed and the chalk bag is loaded with fairy dust.
3.I have ingested enough coffee to rot a whole in my stomach
4.I have talked it over with my mom and she says its ok to murder
5.Then i can feel it coming.....I start to tremble, butterflies are goin.....................BOOM!!!!
This is what I live for...that moment!!!!!
It takes me about ten minutes to be over that feeling and wanting it again. I feel like some serial dating ho who has to hit and run their whole lives ....but thats ok...thats who I am in the climbing world a hit'n and run'n ho with no regrets along the way.
These are the types of blog updates you get when summers here....sorry
Saturday, July 25, 2009
OK....so its a little late and the same as rami's blog update however here it is..........
After we landed and waited an extra hour for my pad to arrive we swept up the rental car and headed to clear creek canyon to Animal V10......this thing is rad!!!!! The water is raging class 6 rapids, so loud you could barely hear me murder this rig in less than 2hrs.....shortly after I only thought it was fair to my pad to let it surf these beautiful water lines......I mean really after all your pad does for you....shouldnt we treat them a little better? My pad murdered the white water and had to eddy before he got sea sick.
Sick run bra!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Happy bday to me and we peaced out for boulder.........
Yeah like everybody either climbs, bikes,australian rappells or walks their dog here.
Anyway we went to Nates...aka the hilton on the hill and let me tell you the accomidations were lovely!!!!!! I stayed in the upper level suite with my pad....he was still all wet from his send of the upper class 6 rapid send and this made for an interesting nites sleep. I drank like 3 big beers from the liquor mart and went to nite nite after crushing at fooseball at Max's crib.
We woke up the next day and chilled at the coffee shop for a minute or 2 and headed to Rmnp with Dave and Carolyn Nate and Brian ....The Brian voges!!!!!!!!!!! The hike was bad but not crazy bad....
We went to the Gobot v11 area and warmed up on the classic autobot v5........this thing was super good and a little scary....basically if you fell you would tumble down a sloped boulder to a scabed up ass casm. After this we went over to the Marble V12 which has a V10 start that I did all the moves on but didnt link....I want to go back for this one $ sure. Checked out Handicapps,deep puddle dynamics and Tommys arete ...all good stuff.
We headed to Denver to hook up with Kevin Brown and crash at his crib. While we were there we checked out his new gym he opened up with Lee Payne in denver
.....The DBC...................................Thats The Denver Bouldering Club!!!
It was rad and I set a v6 boulder problem to leave my mark.
Next we wanted to go check out Mt.Evans area B
We warmed up on the ladder v2.....and I did makers mark v5 second go. We headed over to Bierstadt v10. This thing is rad, I got to the last move first go and never sent....booooooooo!
Bierstadt......with the beaver face!
Next we headed up the hill to Dali V9...also very rad line I sent quickly and considered it soft for 9 but very cool
All in all a good trip ...going back soon to send the Marble, Bierstadt,Deep puddle,and Cage free.
I miss the area already... its very safe to say that im going back in august for a long weekend to send and also check out the Denver area for housing as we are looking to make a move with our company and ourselves.
Respect the Yukon!!!!
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Well Nate left today for Colorado, Jon is in route and I still have 30 days to go!!!!! Need to work,work,work until then and cant wait to be able to spend 12 days bouldering with no limitations . I have alot to do and have a short list of problems i want to tick
1. Cage Free V11
2. The nothing v8
3. The Amendment V10
4. Dali v9
5. Gorillas in the mist V10
6. Silverback v10
7. Bierstadt v9/10
Im also excited to discover new lines (to me) and have projects for the following summer as this trip is officially tradition!!!!
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Monday, May 18, 2009
Yeah.......ohhhhh yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Well its been a minute or two since I updated the blog.....what can I say...I have been working....been bored ..been chillin....been gymin...been thinkin!!!!!!! Thinkin about what you say? THORNS SIT! I have been dreaming of the chance to have killer temps creep back in so I (or nate) can murder this rig!
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Yesterday my boy Eric Nyc and I went to Moores to check out the rock thats below the road on the right as your driving into the park proper(strong valley). This stuff looked so promising and I had heard people were there back in the day puttin up the goods. We got a pretty early start for sunday and we were at Moores by 1045 am. We had to park on the side of the road and decided to throw the shirt in the window to look like we were outta gas and would return shortly...haha smoke and mirrors for the rangers. As I was parking the honda i got to close to the guard rail and crunched a big divot in the car door.....shit,piss,ass....crap!!!!!!!!!!!! This was very dissapointing to say the least. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!
OK...lets start the hike....this shit was steep downhill and very loose ground. John pro and I had made the half hike in before but turned around. As we pushed on we ran into alot of very big boulders/cliffs that had good rock quality but not really set up for bouldering, these were about halfway down. We could hear the creek running strong and were ready to see whats what down the valley.......then we hit the mangrove/rhodo forrest....holy thick ass shit. This was like some eco- challenge race in peru!!!!! I was crawling at points on the knees getting jabbed in the eye by thorns, chased by wild turkeys and giant toads. REALLY!!!!!! All for the glory of finding the new hueco/joes valley... sick badass area...oh yeah its just sitting there ready to be owned!!!!!!
So we finally reach the creek at the bottom of the valley and its like sunny 85 degrees...itchy and bleeding I run straight into a kick ass boulder(alot like asheboros steepest)...right in the middle of the creek....running water and small falls surrounding it. This thing is so cool........its about 6 feet wide and 12 feet long. You end up using both sides and slap your way out.....the start holds are good....left hand sloping edge right hand small crimp..........slap out with left hand twice with your heel hooked nicely,then scum your right foot by the right hand crimp and smack for a right hand sloping hold thats ok...hold that....heel your right foot on that crimp and smack twice to the lip and press it out.................... werd BULLFROG v6 is born!!!!!!!!
Everything else down there was ok...little chossy or too big.........but the creek bed is promising...we didnt search but maybe a third of the creek bed area but the rock was sooo good...softened by the water flow and sick roof features, however the thickness of the rhodos was alot to deal with........maybe something there worth it!!!!!
Sunday, April 19, 2009
Well the season is starting to slow down, but I am not ready....i want more outta this year. Yesterday we went to moores wall...again...and I have to admit that it was fun just tooling around......doing the casual circuit....no pressure .....no expectations!!!!! First we went to the masterlock wall and warmed up...took a brief look at the right exit to the pit, this is hard no matter how you slice it. We wanted to check out this potential new line on the tall side of the sherman pocket roof boulder. This line looked very chossy and dirty up top so we moved on to Gravity Cavity area. I bet its been 4 years since I had been up to these problems.
Top Shelf V6
Gravity Cavity V5
Anna Pornakova V5
Eric Owens and I did waterboy and Eric Danielson and Eric Owens did the 2nd and third ascents...i think...to Top Shelf. I did Gravity Cavity and Anna Porn also.
All week I had been thinking of my new obsession....THORNS SIT V10/11. This thing is goona be rad!!!!!! I am not sure if it will go in the hot weather .....however Nate is coming back soon to work for my company and I have a feeling we will work it out. Last summer it was Black Sheep V9...this season ender might prove to be alot harder than that. It starts off with a lockoff move from 2 small crimps up to a very muted 2 finger sloping edge ...this edge is the one hold that may be weather dependent....not sure....from there you have to cut your feet and heel your right on a good ledge and pause on a very small edge with your right then fire to the original right hand start crimp(sharp) bring your left hand up to the left edge, get your feet up and do the dyno to a half pad edge 5 feet over the lip...hold the swing and get your foot up to do the crux reach to a bad sloper and your out....ahhhhhhh cant wait!!!!!
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
So this weekend was soooooo very good. The weather was perfect and the friction was impeccable to say the least. It all started with a heavy work day friday that killed my back but not my motivation. I called it quits at around 3:30 and snatched up Eric from Duke and we were off to Boone. Wow we got there very quickly....maybe 2.5 hrs!!!!!! Due to the daylight savings plan we were able to go bouldering as soon as we arrived. So of course we head straight to the M1 boulder at 221 area and warm up on the v4 and quickly jump onto the V9 INSTINCT.......this thing is so good! Having already done the stand start I was phyched to see the sit.... INSTINCTUAL V10! Holy fucking dyno!!!! John you are a mad man, this span is so far....i could barely reach the hold....so this went no where fast but Im ready to try it some more later. Eric and I then started trying the stand and figured out that this was to tall for one pad and fading light...scary.
Off we went to 221 The Dump and we were very phyched to try Project Plowshare V10.
We started throwing ourselves around like rag dolls and made some pretty good progress(in the dark). Eric and I both stuck the first moves within 30 minutes but the dark shut us down...booooooooo!!!! So we headed to the crib and met up with the group...Allison,Moya,Rami,Beth,Ron,Kevin,myself and eric. Then we partied like Rock stars and ate like kings and queens....and smoked like hobbits...haha!!!!!!
Next morning was rough....wooo...to many beers dude. It seemed to go on forever....the coffee wasnt helping and I thought I may ralph, but it passed and we were off to M1 again to show everyone the V4 to warm up . Everybody was phyched about it and we stayed for an hour doing it over and over, it was actually pretty chilly also so it was good to get the blood flowing properly. So we packed up and headed back to the dump. Allison was geared up for Black magic woman V7 and I had one thing on my mind since the night before. Upon getting there we met up with John,Nate,Dave,and Vogues...they were doing Breakup V9/10...after a few was ups we headed down the hill to our probs. I was so ready to get it on and so was everyone else.
I got through the crux to the last move on my first go...wow this was suprising. Rami said he was going to flash but...haha. Anyway after a couple more goes I broke a key foot by accidently kicking the wall to stay on...ouch this hurts!!!! After some cursing and pissing and moaning I sent Project Plowshare next go.........werd em up! NOW WHAT? Ha
Rami sent Raw Meat sit v9
Kevin sent six pack for sure v6 and french roof v6
Allison also sent french roof v6
I repeated Raw meat and Raw Teeth
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Monday, March 9, 2009
ALISON VANDAL V7
Yo...after 2 weeks of being sick and body malfunctions and the weather problems....I actually went climbing yesterday. Lets start with the night before......wine,beer,wine,beer,wine....something about a time change and boom its 7am. Ouch, my head hurts!!!! So i hit the java and hit the road to hook up with my new friend Moya(she cool) and we head for moores to meet allison,kevin,eric,steph,and beth. On the way i get introduced to the" chai bomb"...props moya!
We get to moores and head for the Masterlock wall to warm up...within 30 minutes we were throwing ourselves at "Busta" V7/8.....this was very greazzzzy, I barely did it and so did the 5.10rep dude from Chapel hill. Moya did Lost Boys V4 and I also did Big Up v5. Gina and Tracey were also there and warmed up with us as well ...then we busted to Tsunami V7. This is Allisons proj and the rest of the group hadnt been there so......this thing was also very greazzzzy...It took me like 3 goes to do the stand and while Kevin P. and eric worked the sit. The good news is that allison worked out all the moves and I think will do it soon(sick).
After that we headed to The Vandal V7/V9. I have only repeated this thing once since I established the sit 2 to 3 years ago....so I was phyched to try it and got through the roof but didnt finish....IM TIRED. Finished the day off at Diagonal boulder and Moya,tracey and gina all sent the diagonal crack...props!!!
Friday, February 27, 2009
It was about 5 years ago......maybe 6....... when after a long hard day of trail building, we all just wanted to go bouldering. This is trail day asheboro and Im with Mike D...John Pro....Ed williams...you know the old posse,about to send IHOP (v4) for the warm up when all of a sudden a very old woman(hoover)starts to yell........."this place was quiet until the god damn internet made it popular". This lady was most likely 80 years old and looked alot like the witch on The Wizard of OZ. She was so fired up...i mean if she had a shotgun at the time I have no doubt that she would have at least fired off a"warnen shot". We all proceeded to be fair and polite and all that jazz......this didnt work at all and the rest is history. The next weekend, it was off.....road blocked ...warning signs posted ....rednecks in tree stands on standby....errrrrggghhh.
Mike On the "Thimble" v5
Asheboros steepest v4
All these lines sat and waited 4 yrs as Mike Dean went to battle with The Hoovers and other land owners . Rumors about the situation went on and on...back and forth...right of way...property lines....DEER HUNTING SEASON.....omg....haha LOL.
Anyway props to MIKE DEAN, Jim Horton, The CCC, and the access fund for pulling it off.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Today was epic!!! We made the hike to the north end first thing....wow let me tell you that warming up on v10 is not easy. Greg,Rami,Eric and I umm pumped full of coffee and beef jerky gave orange crush sit a bunch of goes and made little progress. This line is so good and I feel close but it hurts the body....sooo much compression move to move.
Next we bush wacked to the valley...this isnt as bad as I remember, unless you have a huge ORGANIC bouldering mat....uggggghh. We met up with eric and steph for a quick catching up chat and were off to the Octagon boulder.
It took a couple of goes to warm back up again but i managed to do the left variation of octagon with the match start. This seems silly but it does add a half move....duh. Seriously i like this thing it adds one compression move that feels like moving in slow motion into the original beginning...phyched! Rami, and greg got really close to sending the center start to Octagon and eric is close on the left variation as well. We were suppose to check out asheboro but I was the only CCC member so that wasnt going to work....sorry sean I forgot my phone also. Remember 6 miles 2 problems....ugghh im ready for another boone trip.