Saturday, October 31, 2009


Just some thoughts about Grades at Moores Wall.....some people were asking what was good and what was great! These problems I highlighted are good examples of classics at the grade.


V5=The Nick ***
V6=Proper Mod sit ***
V7=Vandal stand ***
V8=Agent Orange sit ***
V9=Left Octagon start **
V10=Orange Crush sit ***

SOFT(this doesnt mean its easy)
V5=The Pit *
V6=Lost Boys sit **
V7=Cuisan *
V8=Tsunami ***
V9=Center Octagon *
V10=Stigmata ***

Also Kevin Perrone was wondering what was good in the V9 category..

Ominous Roof V9 (little soft for grade)
Break Up V9
Instinct V9 (soft)
Bertha V9

Moores Wall
Black Sheep V9
Masterlock into Locksmith V9 (soft)
Vandal Sit V9

Stone Mt

Rage V9

Monday, October 26, 2009

Next time...

Went to G ma today. Solo. Kinda. Met up with my homie Pat Goodman. He showed me a boulder that I had never seen before. Cool face climbing on small crimps. Not my thing but still cool. Really tall. Maybe 25ft or so. The first 10ft, tiny holds. The next 15 the big ones. BTW funny how jugs can feel so small when your afraid. Pat showed a line to me that he said hadn't been done. DONDE! Silly sit to a jug then to a good side pull with your right, big move to a tiny left backhand. Fight a weird barn door. Stab a big slot with your right, match and top it out. FA! holla. I called it, "Success is like suicide" thank you Jay Z. V5/6 I guess. Last time out was kinda bad for me. Didn't have a good day. Too much CROSSFIT! Very sore. No core tension, lats weak, pecs hurtin'. Worked/Flailed on Machismo V8, which needs all of those muscles. Today was much different. Almost murdered it first go. WHUT. It was kinda wet at the top which sucked. next time. Headed up to the Mighty Mouse boulder. Pat showed me this other problem on it called Space Cat V8. Shits cool! Never even seen this thing before. After Pat hooked me the beta i went to work. Cool start, slappy moves, heel hook, and a huge go again to a hard match on a bad sloper. High foot and your out kinda thing. Holla at me if you wanna know beta. Its worth it. We both almost sent but once time. We were getting tired so we thought a different style of climbing would be better for us so we headed down to Have Guns Keep Traveling V9. Crimpy traverse. Duh. I pretty much HIKED it to the rest jug. Then, FAIL. Tank was on empty. Sigh. I worked on the hard no feet campus part and it felt kinda easy considering it being the end of the day. Oh time. If the weather holds out for the weekend I should have a pretty good time.

The Season Is On

Well so we are almost to the end of October and the temps have been pretty good so far. Seems like it's been raining quite a lot in Boonetown but I've managed to get up there three times already. I finished up Novocain (V6) but it seems like every time I get one problem off the project list, five more rush in to take its place. For me now Left Out (V8) is the new obsession. For those of you who don't know the crimps on that thing might be the tiniest ever. Anyway, here are some pics from last year. Hopefully the crew will all get back to Boone together soon, damn you rain!!!!
Rami - Portabello (V9)

the author on Novocain (V6)

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Monday, October 19, 2009

WERD! first post to the GROUP BLOG!!! Moore's wall yesterday. first time for this season and it was pretty good. kinda cold, a little damp but still good. didn't really have an agenda except for Steph wanting to do some work on Hidden In Plain Veiw. can you say high-ball! BAWSSE! shiz it like 30ft high. scary i think plus it has a semi-talus landing. no bueno tio. she worked out all the beta to about 10ft or so. needs another scout out and more pads and i think it will go. pre-spray FFA! I screwed around on Busta V8, one of Rodney's rigs from back in the day. i always thought it looked cool but DAMN it looked hard. really small hold for you left hand, maybe 1/4 pad crimp. oh, and down sloping. tried Rodney's beta for a few tries and was like nope. i'm gonna move on. then Steph was like "try a right heal hook." hummm... 4 0r five goes later Donde! really fun problem. my fingers hurt today. Jared sent right after i did for the "1-2" oh, Jared worked on Masterlock V9 a bit too and i shot a few photos. Addam also did Big Up V6. it was touch and go there for a sec. his skin was fading fast due to the sharpness of the route but he sent and made it his bitch. swole.

Louder Than 11

So yesterday Nate Draughn, Rami Annab, and myself had the pleasure of giving Jordan Shipman(owner and operator of LT11) the tour of Moores Wall bouldering. The day started off for me at knew that I had to get up at 530am but woke up at 4am and just couldnt get back to sleep. I had alot on my mind...Work....little crazy right now as well as the filming we would be doing that day. I had injured my neck about 8yrs ago and it was pretty rough...herniated c7 disk...ouch...outta the game for 6 months and hating the down time. So in the gym setting for the latest comp at TRC I felt that same tweak on a dyno it had been 8yrs with no hint of the neck drama...but now it reared its ugly head or neck.......ouch. Was I going to be able to send for the camera? FOR HOLLYWOOD? HAHA>>>>
Was I going to be mid crux and my neck explode? So many stupid thoughts were racing around my foggy mind. Anyway its like I said 4am and im up like drinking coffee, feeding Lilly....she is looking at me with such disgust....why are we up eating at 4am...that look?! So I do lots of coffee and hit the road, getting to the food lion in King at about 725am to meet up with the boys.
Its maybe 40 degrees and the wind is blowing and I had to drink half a bottle of Pepto Bismol.....because ....well....ummmm....things were not looking good for being athletic!....stomach?....neck?
We had to shoot alot of entry scenes which was fun ...Zoe Wilson....Jordans girl... also has A it was double rover intro...nice! We headed down to the North End first Nate was being filmed on Orange Crush sit V10. This rig is rough.....solid V10....very cool compression moves on steep arete. Nate had to warm up on this really! It went very well and Nate completed the filming there rather quickly(2hrs). Next it was over to VANDAL sit V9....this was the line that I would be featured doing......Neck? Stomach? Cmon...give me a break.
Rami and I bush wacked thru to the Valley and got to Vanadal about 10 minutes ahead of the film crew...brushed up the holds....and since it had been a while since the FA of Vandal I had to recall my beta. Holds cleaned and chalked, beta revived.....fuck you stomach and piss off neck....IM READY. Every thing was going to go my way right?
One scary slip off the later 3rd of the problem(no spotters allowed) scraped up my elbow alittle, but after that all went well and we wrapped up the filming of Vandal and my neck hung in there. Next we went down to Tsunami V8 and Rami killed it like 5 times in a row and thats that.....Moores short coming out next month ...maybe on Deadpoint Mag site as well as LT11.....phyched.
After we enjoyed a few beers and Mexican food at MI PUEBLO in king. Very tasty food ...I was impressed. Oh I almost forgot to mention after meeting Jordan and Zoes dog...I want a greyhound...they rock.
Other Highlights
Jared ande Eric did Busta V8...werd up

Friday, October 9, 2009

Thursday Boone Session

Went to Boone yesterday and it was so good. The temps were perfect maybe 65 to 70 and the sky was a perfect shade of blue. Fall is so sick....I have such a hard time with deciding if which is better fall/spring? The trees in Boone are looking very nice also , nearing full color already reds,yellows,greens...beautiful! It did seem like there was a little rain the day before however things had dried up nicely.
We started off at Sassafras so that Alison could try both The feather v7 and The Fern v7/8(stand) also I wanted to give Vortex some goes as well, while Eric just wanted to run laps on everything haha. Alsion was very close on The Feather....all she needs to do now is go back and do it. She also broke the ice on The Fern stand and figured out some good beta!
The Fern

I got very close to doing Vortex...all I need to do is go back and complete this line...I fell or gave up rather at the top because its so dirty ...will bring wire brush and clean it up for the send next weekend...very phyched...its a little scary but fun.

Next we bounced to Gma and I had really wanted to actually try Teamwork because it was wet everytime I had been to Gma in the last month...seriously always wet. Eric and Alison wanted to do Have guns so they headed down to the Great Roof area while I went over to Teamwork. Guess what? It was wet again..@1^#^&%@#&@$#@#%@*%#*@%#@&%#&@%#!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Luckily the starting holds and the sloper for the first move were I was able to do the first part and get my beta ready for when it is dry...its way better than it looks....I have to let my feet cut on the first move and hold it to get the right foot up to the crimp and then toe hook...very phyched to do this....hopefully I can do the mantle!
Then after trying Teamwork I went down to hook up with those guys and they were both close to sending...eric was doing keep traveling V9 and allison regular have guns V7. Have Guns

Next I gave Sunday Service V11 some goes....ouch this rig is rough...I got to the dyno first go but never made any more progress, not sure if i can do the dyno move its crazy,need some beta....Nate? Then......ummmm......I had been looking at Masochist for like 6 months before and well never felt like sacking up and getting on this V10 break a leg highball on the far left tall side of the great scared! It involves a big first move off a sharp but good left and and a side pull/undecling for your right...high step the right foot and pull on to go big to a sick... Cant wait to go back many projects now


Wednesday, October 7, 2009

So the comp was so much fun.....for me its all about hanging out,chillin with old friends and discovering new ones. I got up to boone around 2pm on thursday and was so ready to help out Jim Horton and the gang set up,tape up, and finally clear tape the problems . Yes that was my position this year...the clear tape guy. You see without the clear tape the labels would simply melt in the rain. I was so important....i mean the whole comp hinged on my ability to clear tape a problems label. Oh yeag I also chalked up the know I looked at the line ...saw the holds...and chalked them. SICK!!!!!!!!!
Also I was in charge of taking the VIP up the hill so they didnt have to endure the bus.....JRHEE,ABBY,Rami,Brian C, know...the big wigs...I had to entertain them with the beats in the rover and hob nobbing with the guard at the gate...yeah we know each other.
Project plowshare link up v10
Mr.Thick v9